9/24/2012

Climbing The East Face of Fitz Roy During Winter

Michi Lerjen tells his story of opening a new route with Jorge Ackermann on the east face of Fitz Roy during winter in Patagonia.


9/19/2012

The Hardest Offwidth Crack in Vedauwoo

They all reported on it when it happened:

Outside Magazine even launched a extensive athlete profile video on her after she did it.

Now, Edelweiss USA and Liberty Mountain are showing you how Pamela "Shanti" Pack made the first ascent of Forever War 5.13c/d R.



Watch it on Vimeo or Youtube.

Pamela called the Forever War "the hardest offwidth crack in Vedauwoo" after nabbing the first ascent in June of 2012. "The Forever War is an 85-foot pitch featuring 20 feet of inverted climbing through a steep roof, followed by overhanging arm-bars capped by 30 feet of 5.12a blue-collar groveling. Despite the two bolts, the route still requires a hefty rack." -Pamela "Shanti" Pack

Read Pamela's account of the First Ascent on her blog.


9/13/2012

Steve House in Repentance, Remission


Repentance, Remission from Granite Films Jim Surette on Vimeo.

Jim Surette of Granite Films did a wonderful job of capturing the experience that Grivel athlete, Steve House had while soloing two of New Hampshire's classic ice climbs...Repentance & Remission on Cathedral Ledge in North Conway, NH. For more amazing videos from Jim Surette, visit his website at www.granitefilms.com.

Check out the interview Climberism Magazine did with Steve about this soloing experience.

9/06/2012

Employee BBQ and Climbing Night

Enjoy the photos from our Employee/Family BBQ-Climbing Night in Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT.

We gathered the Utah employees at Liberty Mountain, along with some of their family members, and monopolized at least 6 routes at the Storm Mountain Picnic Area in Big Cottonwood Canyon. We also hiked in the grill and fired up some burgers and dogs. Evenings like these allow us all to relax, get to know each other better, climb, and feast.


Grivel Athlete - Scott Adamson

Scott Adamson hails from Provo, UT where he keeps himself busy establishing high-end mixed-ice climbs in Provo Canyon, as well as delicately sewing up the cracks in the deserts of Southern Utah.


Scott is mostly known around the nation and world for his epic attempts on the east face of Alaska’s Mooses Tooth and the southeast face of Kyzyl Asker in Kyrgyzstan. Obviously his real passion is on alpine and ice ascents, although he is still very keen on trad climbing and loves to dip into sport climbing and bouldering every once and a while.

Accomplishments:
• Made the first ascent of Levitation and Hail Marys, V WI6 M7 on the south face of the Mooses Tooth in Alaska.
• Developed and made the first ascent of Donkey Punch, M9+ in Provo Canyon, UT.
• Free-solo ascent of Bird Brain Blvd, 7-pitch WI5 M5 in 1 hr 16 mins, near Ouray, CO.
• Redpointed Brother From Another Planet, 5.12+ OW in Indian Creek, UT.
• Redpointed Trench Warfare, 5.12+ OW in Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT.
• Onsighted all of the crux pitches on Moonlights Buttress 5.12d in Zion National Park, UT.

Watch Scott in action:
Plan B Video
Mixed Contusion FA Video


...

Buildering with Roman Manu



Roman Manu is a Beal and Vaude sponsored athlete.
Follow him on Facebook and checkout his website.

9/01/2012

Vaude Athlete - Kilian Fischhuber




Click CC for Subtitles!
Bouldering champ, and Vaude athlete, Kilian Fischhuber gives insight on what drives him in climbing and what goals he has for the Climbing World Championships 2012 in Paris.

...

Vaude equipment is sold at www.libertymountain.com and www.libertymountainclimbing.com.

Plugging Pieces on Black Bean

One year ago a video was posted on the internet of Arnaud Petit, a sponsored Beal athlete, climbing France's notorious Black Bean (5.13d) route on the Biographie Wall. The coolest thing about this video is the fact that he was so bored and inspired by this route that he decided to try something new and climb it while placing his own gear. Some call it "green pointing" and some call it crazy. We think it's pretty slick. See for yourself.




So instead of clipping into all the pre-placed bolts on his way up, he ran it out to the very few spots where we was able to place cams and nuts. You'll notice too that he opted for the Beal Joker 9.1 rope to be his lifeline on this super-stellar feat.

The Beal Joker 9.1 conforms to all three dynamic rope standards, e.g., single rope, twin rope, and half rope. With this versatility, the Joker is definitely the rope that extreme climbers love. But that's not all. At the start of 2013, Liberty Mountain will be distributing and selling the NEW Beal Joker 9.1 UNICORE.

Just like the Diablo, the Joker will now have Beal's phenomenal UNICORE to prevent sheath bunching and slipping, making the rope safer and more reliable in abrasive and wet conditions. This is a game changer. Learn more about UNICORE here.