tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9144713127093176082024-03-05T22:42:39.480-07:00Liberty Mountain ClimbingThe official Liberty Mountain Climbing blog, featuring gear reviews, trip reports, rock climbing stories and news, and much more.
Liberty Mountain is the exclusive U.S. distributor of the following brands: Beal, Cypher, Edelweiss, Equinox, Grivel, Kong, Olicamp, Outdoor Designs, Peregrine, Pieps, Singing Rock, Stram, Stubai, Trangia, Ushba, Valandre, and Vaude.Liberty Mountain Climbinghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17061246233511665444noreply@blogger.comBlogger300125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-914471312709317608.post-34474742515708181692019-09-06T15:20:00.000-06:002019-09-06T15:57:15.774-06:00Gear Check - Grivel by Shingo Ohkawa<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/NhfHqgQBd9U" width="560"></iframe>
</div>
<br />
"Whether it's here in our backyard, Utah's Wasatch mountains, or at the roof of the world in the Greater Ranges--exploratory climbing is my game: seeking out unclimbed, alpine rock has been my obsession since I first tied-in. Realizing new routes in the high country requires a diversity of skills; it's not enough just to be adept at rock climbing. Often, just reaching the base of the climb involves a complex approach across snow and ice--not to mention what sort of obstacles may loom above, en route to the summit, once the wall is surmounted...<br />
Whereas my teammates continue to push the envelope in the realm of steep ice and modern mixed climbing, I've focused more on honing my classical alpine repertoire: moving with speed and efficiency over snow, ice, and rock, adapting to dynamic mountain conditions and, with luck, opening a new line with style--and, returning from the top, safely! Every now and then, you'll find me throwing tools, ascending a long icefall--even scratching about, up the odd M-pitch... That's why I rely on Grivel for my varied, mountain-travel needs; throughout our 200-year history, we've continued to apply old-world, hot-forged manufacturing techniques to the ever-evolving demands of alpinists, ski-mountaineers--and, even, lowly rock climbers, like myself!"- Shingo<br />
<div style="margin-top: 70px;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivOCRPZLW2GnJVSysFp2g6-G-8FZDyR-ydn7uLYNmXXXGD8Y7NySZSNAlAeetnTCDs_zAKJzhiNe5hYL9TMEMZMkCBjV9aOH0zhBHnyMlq4yHmGe6YUjbU5fPsR1q6BvGmZhOO2SK3EBF4/s1600/shingoohkawa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="676" data-original-width="450" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivOCRPZLW2GnJVSysFp2g6-G-8FZDyR-ydn7uLYNmXXXGD8Y7NySZSNAlAeetnTCDs_zAKJzhiNe5hYL9TMEMZMkCBjV9aOH0zhBHnyMlq4yHmGe6YUjbU5fPsR1q6BvGmZhOO2SK3EBF4/s320/shingoohkawa.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b>by Shingo Ohkawa-</b><br />
<em>Shingo is a Grivel athlete and one of the Wasatch Range’s visionary climbers with a drive for pioneering new routes that is always at full-throttle. He is endlessly contributing to the development of new routes in the Lone Peak Cirque as well as Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons. Shingo is a very pay-it-forward climber. Not only is he expanding the climbing potential in the Salt Lake City area but he is also a volunteer liaison with the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance.</em><br />
<div style="clear: both;">
</div>
<br /><br/>
_________<br />
<br/>Like what you read? Share it with a friend.Liberty Mountainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03093638744889511588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-914471312709317608.post-84013588094768677282019-05-10T13:42:00.002-06:002019-05-13T15:11:20.963-06:00Equipment and Nutrition for Modern Alpine Climbing<span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;">When climbing in Alpine style most discussion and debate are focused on the bivouac strategy. </span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;">Common questions are, do you plan to sleep?</span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;">Do you plan to lie down or sit on a pack?</span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;">Wear puffy pants or use a sleeping bag?</span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;">Should we share a sleeping bag?</span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;">Tent or no tent?</span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;">Generally the food and nutrition conversation gets wrapped up in this, because your bivy strategy generally determines how long you plan to be on route for.</span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;">Liberty Mountain distributes a number of products that have facilitated my success and helped me answer many of these questions climbing around the world.</span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;">The convenience of being able to get all these products from one source is unparalleled in my opinion.</span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;">I just got home from a trip in the Central Alaska Range where I completed a first ascent on the East Face of Mount Dickey (5,000’ AI6+M7 April 3-5) with Jackson Marvell.</span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif;"> Below I’ll talk through some of the products we used and how they allowed us to keep things light and fast on the wall.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU3IiYfkg1FfNzaKzbEXhtVg7RSomyHT0ViaZNXJchiLuOfRzOIfcjJjwsGkBrQ4oKe2o8_IwqYMDYunukH9FGRC2VhYnWFBq98k_WPA71wUisSZ5f_7Wm_8fg8z8_d_sCNHBVb0Xm0DWF/s1600/Picture0.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="552" data-original-width="368" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU3IiYfkg1FfNzaKzbEXhtVg7RSomyHT0ViaZNXJchiLuOfRzOIfcjJjwsGkBrQ4oKe2o8_IwqYMDYunukH9FGRC2VhYnWFBq98k_WPA71wUisSZ5f_7Wm_8fg8z8_d_sCNHBVb0Xm0DWF/s320/Picture0.png" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Liberty Mountain distributes Valandre, a high quality down manufacturer based in the Pyrenees. I use one big puffy on these routes and a half sleeping bag to cut weight and increase versatility. In the above photo I was in our first bevy using a Garmin inReach Mini to get an updated weather forecast. Photo by: Jackson Marvell</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">On route we ate <span style="color: #1f497d;"><a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/advancedSearchResults.aspx?id=0&keyword2=MOUNTAIN%20HOUSE&searchType=Exact%20Phrase" target="_blank">Mountain House</a> </span>meals for dinners. It’s the lightest, and easiest way to get about 700 calories in. Aside from this, all food was either bars (<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5065/NTN10543/honey-stinger-waffle" target="_blank">Honey Stinger</a>, <a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/advancedSearchResults.aspx?id=0&keyword2=KIND&searchType=Exact%20Phrase" target="_blank">Kind Bars</a>, <a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/advancedSearchResults.aspx?id=0&keyword2=probar&searchType=ALL%20Keywords&SearchSpecificField=0&SearchContent=0" target="_blank">ProBars</a>, <a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5065/NTN17707" target="_blank">Kate's Real Food</a>) or GU. Our weight got lighter when a raven raided our first bivy and threw a stuff sack with 6,000 calories off the face. This was also motivation to climb a bit faster! A <a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5064/320200" target="_blank">Jetboil Sumo</a> made for a great on-route cook system. Since it melts water fast, we also just carried one <a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/advancedSearchResults.aspx?id=0&keyword2=NALGENE&searchType=Exact%20Phrase" target="_blank">Nalgene</a> bottle and brewed up as needed. </span><br />
<div>
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif; font-size: 12pt;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif; font-size: 12pt;"></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVEZrCLBw36-hxwoYjrEXfK7eIOKq1A9MeLDMV6htMleSkzv6W68QvZrT6U1sVAk8P4dv4aJaNYJgKGHrfRfVwWnetLG7Ul3fy949nXErJGruGNoIsep03WzMYg7QasuzJy9wsRnGsslOP/s1600/Picture1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="897" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVEZrCLBw36-hxwoYjrEXfK7eIOKq1A9MeLDMV6htMleSkzv6W68QvZrT6U1sVAk8P4dv4aJaNYJgKGHrfRfVwWnetLG7Ul3fy949nXErJGruGNoIsep03WzMYg7QasuzJy9wsRnGsslOP/s400/Picture1.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Making some water to start day three on route. Photo by: Jackson Marvell</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
At our high bivy we had a surprise snowstorm, with about 4 inches accumulating. We had 2,000 vertical feet of steep terrain (60-90 degrees) overhead and spent the night in a torrent of spindrift. This is when we were pretty excited to have an <span style="color: #1f497d;"><a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/productdetails.aspx?id=5204&itemno=NTN09044" target="_blank">Equinox Myotis Tarp</a></span>, an ultralight sil-nylon tarp with tie-down points. We draped this over our small, chopped snow ledge and all night the tarp got hammered by blast after blast of spindrift. That 8 foot by 8 foot sheet of silicone impregnated nylon likely made the difference between discomfort and serious danger!<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtZkGeGtv3jky3-ChW4etpiI8zPNUnNs0SbPB630Fu9PKw_LwfGovgiyBpscJfsquKyuKnNReA-QB_CtQBmvYp7NLhm0vxfyFZKQ389fhf_RLVA2YnA2P8RQzJQhS8-SkKtso66IEqGZDv/s1600/Picture2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="529" data-original-width="706" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtZkGeGtv3jky3-ChW4etpiI8zPNUnNs0SbPB630Fu9PKw_LwfGovgiyBpscJfsquKyuKnNReA-QB_CtQBmvYp7NLhm0vxfyFZKQ389fhf_RLVA2YnA2P8RQzJQhS8-SkKtso66IEqGZDv/s400/Picture2.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.800000190734863px;"><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif; text-align: start;"><span style="font-size: small;">Jackson at 4 am in the high bivy, counting the minutes until sunrise. </span></span><span style="font-size: 12.800000190734863px;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;"></span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
Arguably as important as the bivouac and cook system, is the rope system. When climbing on steep features with coarse granite, I generally like to go a bit beefier with my rope system. It’s possible to be jugging on lines, or hauling packs and leading on one rope. Because of this we used one <span style="color: #1f497d;"><a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/NTN17101/beal-joker-unicore" target="_blank">Beal Joker</a></span>, 60 meters X 9.1 MM and one <span style="color: #1f497d;"><a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/NTN15110/beal-ice-line-unicore" target="_blank">Beal Ice line</a></span>, 60 meters X 8.1 MM. I also was really impressed with the new <span style="color: #1f497d;"><a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/NTN18755" target="_blank">Beal Ghost harness</a></span>, which has enough surface area to be comfortable but also packs down small and has minimal bulk. On our trip we climbed 11,000’ of steep climbing and the ropes look no worse for wear.<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQUMsBwrqwweCuafiFlmHbJDP31Z6Ze6pkW29F3EMNCvT-jUBvCAzt1kiW4aptxQKkTCY6tD4nSLmVw4teqRfNLWYRSSa4HgAegBc8fu72Ckao0SCcp7L_R0PeH7qgpjys5LJnbBPzM3-3/s1600/Picture3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="625" data-original-width="670" height="372" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQUMsBwrqwweCuafiFlmHbJDP31Z6Ze6pkW29F3EMNCvT-jUBvCAzt1kiW4aptxQKkTCY6tD4nSLmVw4teqRfNLWYRSSa4HgAegBc8fu72Ckao0SCcp7L_R0PeH7qgpjys5LJnbBPzM3-3/s400/Picture3.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.800000190734863px;"><span style="font-family: "cambria" , serif; font-size: small;">Follow the leader.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
Liberty Mountain is also the distributer for <span style="color: #1f497d;"><a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/advancedSearchResults.aspx?id=0&keyword2=GRIVEL&searchType=Exact%20Phrase" target="_blank">Grivel</a> </span>in North America. I am always happy to have their ‘hot forged’ steel in my corner. The <span style="color: #1f497d;"><a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/NTN17244" target="_blank">Thor Hammer</a></span>, allows me to place pitons and specters with confidence and still climb on an aggressive tool, the <span style="color: #1f497d;"><a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/NTN17279/grivel-tech-machine" target="_blank">Tech Machine</a></span>. Also, the <a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/756630" target="_blank">G20 Plus</a> is a super light, mono-point crampon with replaceable front point. A crampon like this is key for an expedition with multiple big, difficult objectives planned. Another handy tool from Grivel on this route was the ‘<span style="color: #1f497d;"><a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/756866" target="_blank">Carryabiners</a></span>' aluminum ice clippers. I have snapped several plastic ice clippers in cold temps. Loosing your ice screws on a big route can mean a forced retreat, or worse if a safe retreat isn’t possible. The last piece I’ll mention is the <span style="color: #1f497d;"><a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/758766/grivel-plume-twin-gate-carabiner" target="_blank">Plume Twin Gate</a> </span>carabiner. My climbing partner was using a traditional screw gate carabiner. He had to breathe or suck on his carabiner to get it to melt enough to open most of the time. The plume twin gate, uses two wire gates to create a locking mechanism. There is no surface area to ice up, and I’m convinced it’s the best carabiner for ice and alpine climbing.<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAowxRBCa8vUb8CDSFyUty7z105OyehR7I_F-XuXveucWk2qPl5JboO-HXVYXkHZLpYOM0IQvcVERLSP4Y2ifKavVG2JTbbWIPs28rKtKq3ZLVhgVhrRIRf5tCJcOVm20VJJmO_27Jp1YP/s1600/Picture4.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="702" data-original-width="470" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAowxRBCa8vUb8CDSFyUty7z105OyehR7I_F-XuXveucWk2qPl5JboO-HXVYXkHZLpYOM0IQvcVERLSP4Y2ifKavVG2JTbbWIPs28rKtKq3ZLVhgVhrRIRf5tCJcOVm20VJJmO_27Jp1YP/s640/Picture4.png" width="427" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.800000190734863px;"><span style="font-size: small;">Using <span style="color: #1f497d;"><a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5073/NTN19180/denali-glove" target="_blank">Outdoor Designs Denali Gauntlet gloves </a></span>while vision-questing into mixed terrain. Photo by: Jackson Marvell</span><br />
<div style="font-size: 12.800000190734863px;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
Liberty Mountain distributes the following products that were used on this ascent:<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<b>Grivel</b>-<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/NTN09998/grivel-plume-carabiners" target="_blank">Plume Wire Gate</a><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/758766/grivel-plume-twin-gate-carabiner" target="_blank">Plume Twin Gate</a><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/NTN17244" target="_blank">Thor Hammer</a><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/NTN17279/grivel-tech-machine" target="_blank">Tech Machines</a><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/756630" target="_blank">G20 Plus</a><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/756866" target="_blank">Carryabiners</a><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/NTN17281/grivel-master-pro-belay" target="_blank">Master Pro Belay device</a><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/NTN18040" target="_blank">Stealth Helmet</a></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<b>Beal-</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/NTN15110/beal-ice-line-unicore" target="_blank">Ice Line 8.1 60 meter</a><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/NTN17101/beal-joker-unicore" target="_blank">Joker Golden Dry 9.1 60 meter</a><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/NTN18755" target="_blank">Ghost Harness</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/NTN17152" target="_blank">Dyneema slings</a><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/NTN17152" target="_blank">6 mm accessory cord</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<b>Valandre-</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5073/NTN15971/valandre-immelman-g2-jacket" target="_blank">G2 jacket</a><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5068/NTN12243/valandre-bloody-mary-sleeping-bag" target="_blank">Bloody Mary sleeping bag</a> (at base camp)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<b>Nutrition-</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/advancedSearchResults.aspx?id=0&keyword2=MOUNTAIN%20HOUSE&searchType=Exact%20Phrase" target="_blank">Mountain House Meals</a><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5065/NTN01178/gu" target="_blank">Gu </a><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5065/NTN10543/honey-stinger-waffle" target="_blank">Honey Stinger Waffles</a><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5065/NTN08342/organic-energy-chews" target="_blank">Honey Stinger Organic Energy Chews</a><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/advancedSearchResults.aspx?id=0&keyword2=KIND&searchType=Exact%20Phrase" target="_blank">Kind Bars</a><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5065/NTN09125/probar-meal-bars" target="_blank">PROBAR Meal Bars</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5065/NTN16567/probar-bite-bars" target="_blank">PROBAR Bite Bars</a><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5065/NTN18301" target="_blank">PROBAR Almond Butter</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5065/NTN17707" target="_blank">Kate's Real Food Tram Bars</a><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<b>Other-</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/productdetails.aspx?id=5204&itemno=NTN09044" target="_blank">Equinox Myotis Ultralite tarp</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5073/NTN19180/denali-glove" target="_blank">Outdoor Designs Denali Gauntlet glove</a><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5064/320200" target="_blank">Jetboil Sumo</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5060/NTN19476" target="_blank">Garmin inReach Mini</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/advancedSearchResults.aspx?id=0&keyword2=NALGENE&searchType=Exact%20Phrase" target="_blank">Nalgene bottle</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpmzzWJCx3M6y8SYR3UMolMIrYLt57UFNNMfFCorp6n7Zod7XlCdjNiwy2BUoCXZehtuHAg9rQFhLORK67C-2sBmk7U2kGnHHrqoA4lSf7FuMsT-4VpidMxeHR3wK8FDDf-dCIg8ZV8sc/s1600/Alan_Rousseau.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; font-family: -webkit-standard; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="773" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpmzzWJCx3M6y8SYR3UMolMIrYLt57UFNNMfFCorp6n7Zod7XlCdjNiwy2BUoCXZehtuHAg9rQFhLORK67C-2sBmk7U2kGnHHrqoA4lSf7FuMsT-4VpidMxeHR3wK8FDDf-dCIg8ZV8sc/s320/Alan_Rousseau.jpeg" width="247" /></a><i style="caret-color: rgb(96, 96, 96); color: #606060; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.850000381469727px;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"></span></i><br />
<i style="caret-color: rgb(96, 96, 96); color: #606060; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.850000381469727px;"><i style="caret-color: rgb(96, 96, 96); color: #606060; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.850000381469727px;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></i></i>
<i style="caret-color: rgb(96, 96, 96); color: #606060; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.850000381469727px;"><i style="caret-color: rgb(96, 96, 96); color: #606060; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.850000381469727px;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></i></i>
<i style="caret-color: rgb(96, 96, 96); color: #606060; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.850000381469727px;"><i style="caret-color: rgb(96, 96, 96); color: #606060; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.850000381469727px;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></i></i>
<i style="caret-color: rgb(96, 96, 96); color: #606060; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.850000381469727px;"><i style="caret-color: rgb(96, 96, 96); color: #606060; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.850000381469727px;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></i></i>
<i style="caret-color: rgb(96, 96, 96); color: #606060; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.850000381469727px;"><i style="caret-color: rgb(96, 96, 96); color: #606060; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.850000381469727px;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></i></i>
<span style="color: #606060; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif;"><i>Alan Rousseau is an <span style="color: #333333;">AMGA, </span><span style="color: #333333;">IFMGA, and UIAGM </span><span style="color: #333333;">Certified Guide, and member of the Beal and Grivel athlete teams. Learn more about his climbing accomplishments <a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/page.aspx?name=alanrousseau" style="color: #c57a00; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">here</a></span></i></span><br />
<i style="caret-color: rgb(96, 96, 96); color: #606060; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.850000381469727px;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></i>
<i style="caret-color: rgb(96, 96, 96); color: #606060; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.850000381469727px;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></i>
<i style="caret-color: rgb(96, 96, 96); color: #606060; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.850000381469727px;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></i>
<i style="caret-color: rgb(96, 96, 96); color: #606060; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.850000381469727px;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></i>
<i style="caret-color: rgb(96, 96, 96); color: #606060; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.850000381469727px;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></i>
<i style="caret-color: rgb(96, 96, 96); color: #606060; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.850000381469727px;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></i>
<i style="caret-color: rgb(96, 96, 96); color: #606060; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.850000381469727px;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></i>
<i style="caret-color: rgb(96, 96, 96); color: #606060; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.850000381469727px;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></i>
<i style="caret-color: rgb(96, 96, 96); color: #606060; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.850000381469727px;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></i>
<i style="caret-color: rgb(96, 96, 96); color: #606060; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.850000381469727px;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></i>
<i style="caret-color: rgb(96, 96, 96); color: #606060; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.850000381469727px;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></i>
<br />
<div class="post-body entry-content" id="post-body-5897417909094761412" itemprop="articleBody" style="caret-color: rgb(96, 96, 96); color: #606060; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.850000381469727px; line-height: 1.4; position: relative; width: 678px;">
Like what you read? Share it with a friend.</div>
</div>
<div>
</div>
Liberty Mountainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03093638744889511588noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-914471312709317608.post-58974179090947614122017-10-24T08:47:00.002-06:002017-10-24T09:21:02.402-06:0012-Months O’ Swing’n - Climbing Ice Every Month for a Year<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwhlHUFnteuU36D8JdSIRhr12tR3Kr4qTWscWK0ZCW9OHimZaTfTUxv5HnyQi7qDSl6FYxD8hOvGtBALw2XzUVuFO3NK-u64Ex4hKLybXMdbQ0tD3vvPbGEfJmk1VyEeOCB76n0MBC6B8/s1600/DSC01938-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwhlHUFnteuU36D8JdSIRhr12tR3Kr4qTWscWK0ZCW9OHimZaTfTUxv5HnyQi7qDSl6FYxD8hOvGtBALw2XzUVuFO3NK-u64Ex4hKLybXMdbQ0tD3vvPbGEfJmk1VyEeOCB76n0MBC6B8/s640/DSC01938-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo - Nathan Smith</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<i>Grivel and Beal athlete Alan Rousseau shares photos and stories from his escapades on ice over the last 12 months.</i><br />
<br />
Around March of 2017, after five consecutive months of ice
climbing, I looked ahead at my schedule and thought it looked realistic to get
12-months straight of swinging ice tools.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>As an IFMGA mountain guide I travel around the world’s ranges lining up
trips to fill my calendar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was working
the 2016-2017 winter in my home range, The Wasatch. The spring was booked in
the Alaska Range for April and May.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then
the summer was spent in Chamonix for June, July, and August.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To round out the year my long time expedition
partner, Tino Villaneuva and I had secured the Mugs Stump Award and Copp Dash Inspire
Award to head to Kashmir for September and October.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This year has been my craziest schedule to
date.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I hope you enjoy experiencing the
following images of my frozen year filled with hanging belays, spindrift caked
hoods, and hot-forged-steel against frozen stone.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
Fall of 2016 I felt a previously unparalleled psych for cold
alpine climbing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had a ton of mixed projects
in mind and spent my fall swinging around, bolting sections of Provo Canyon I
had seen smears form on in years past. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My training was all ice-tool-centric; I
neglected Rocktober, in hopes that I would be climbing ice in November. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMDiCRCgPWq8jETmRPhDdQaoU8Z1TNCezNz7Un-lrI3QmjqWlELgA-eQBE6t22IRQ63Oi_L79Ujmh5GAgMjfzFp6zwBFkF4ZwKG3pMzATd3C2xxPu9rZvi1JvkFedeTiJko-5av_dhZEw/s1600/P1_pegboard.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="699" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMDiCRCgPWq8jETmRPhDdQaoU8Z1TNCezNz7Un-lrI3QmjqWlELgA-eQBE6t22IRQ63Oi_L79Ujmh5GAgMjfzFp6zwBFkF4ZwKG3pMzATd3C2xxPu9rZvi1JvkFedeTiJko-5av_dhZEw/s640/P1_pegboard.png" width="638" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<h3>
November:</h3>
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This is the first of the twelve-months and it kicked off
with a bang.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Nathan Smith (guide book
author and Salt Lake climber) called me up and told me there was a big ice
route formed in the Beartooths.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
route “Ice Dragons” had seen a number of ascents recently and it was reported
to be in fat condition.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We found 1300’
of friendly thick ice in WI3+ condition and it made for a great warm-up to the
season.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>More details can be found on the
Liberty Mountain Blog <a href="http://libertymountainclimbing.blogspot.com/2016/11/ice-climbing-in-beartooths-november-2016.html" target="_blank">here</a>.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7H11iSGIHAUbkleX3hED0pqPNgXcgH-oDLbijLsApS2d6GkUajtIMiFW-G7pLq7ItkobXc2ggY05qcqYp-3LX_lG3uCoQtI_LXcBgVSpcHxuNyvvKM-uHkUYtiT7Hp9u2SbUCxVL7gAU/s1600/P2_ice+dragons.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="653" data-original-width="652" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7H11iSGIHAUbkleX3hED0pqPNgXcgH-oDLbijLsApS2d6GkUajtIMiFW-G7pLq7ItkobXc2ggY05qcqYp-3LX_lG3uCoQtI_LXcBgVSpcHxuNyvvKM-uHkUYtiT7Hp9u2SbUCxVL7gAU/s640/P2_ice+dragons.png" width="638" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
The next times on ice would proved to be a bit dicier, as
they happened around the Salt Lake area quite early in the year.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A normal early season destination for people
chomping at the bit the last couple of years has been the “Hell Gate” area in Alta,
Utah.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hell Gate’s high elevation gets
snow early in the year, and then the melt freeze cycle creates some fickle
frozen drips that never lack excitement.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcxPtrw2_pzPUHsa8cjUjAWYaYuHoJX4SAdlpqwGogYgRAeYckpOJHvBEbYTNrbHLk0ulOgy_b7wuPYG9W6hOqq6YmHvxlDy6jSA4oS8-x70Tlr1vv2xn3H5Khx5pNg8KrxeYob2V0Yfg/s1600/p3_hellfrozover.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="538" data-original-width="694" height="496" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcxPtrw2_pzPUHsa8cjUjAWYaYuHoJX4SAdlpqwGogYgRAeYckpOJHvBEbYTNrbHLk0ulOgy_b7wuPYG9W6hOqq6YmHvxlDy6jSA4oS8-x70Tlr1vv2xn3H5Khx5pNg8KrxeYob2V0Yfg/s640/p3_hellfrozover.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Pictured is Niels Meyer on “Hell Froze Over”. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Alta had been experiencing below freezing
temps for only 24-hours when this photo was taken.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The last day of the month, was a good one.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I went down to Provo with a friend, Aaron
Kurlan. We figured the ice would be too thin and we would probably just
drytool.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When we pulled into the lot I
saw an ice smear we had bolted in the fall was formed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were both bummed we didn’t get an earlier
start but threw gear in our packs and made a dash for it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Getting to the zone we bolted involved
climbing a couple pitches of the previously established “Purgatorium” M6
WI6.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The ice was delaminated but the
rock gear was reasonable.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From the top
of the second pitch, our route deviates left through a few bolts of really
technical M7/8 into a roof traverse with a mix of thin ice and big moves on
rock.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The next pitch climbs a splitter
dihedral that was choked with ice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was
stoked a route I thought would take a year or two to form went down in
November!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We named the route “Devine
Mercy” as the climber must travel from “Purgatorium” to “Stairway to Heaven”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXYKsMKdCYUOYYskioiXIwXuzO5TEpN1KgrtNVCJ2ov6oJgvr_CDia0dsafNaTgjT0xD8pMFuirz4P-m5dIXZhDe6wDZ6J2GFfmMtZPBWQiIP39KnLMO1h3Viv-ojifdAusuF-7RtYm6k/s1600/p4_devinemercy.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="631" data-original-width="674" height="598" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXYKsMKdCYUOYYskioiXIwXuzO5TEpN1KgrtNVCJ2ov6oJgvr_CDia0dsafNaTgjT0xD8pMFuirz4P-m5dIXZhDe6wDZ6J2GFfmMtZPBWQiIP39KnLMO1h3Viv-ojifdAusuF-7RtYm6k/s640/p4_devinemercy.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<h3>
December:</h3>
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
With December’s arrival the Intermountain West ice season
begins in earnest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I took a couple trips
to Bozeman, one of which was with Tino Villanueva as a bit of a training
mission for India.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We got to get on some
nice routes including the Mummy IV, which was in prime condition mid-December.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiINhw63yBlMlkjRLXce6MBxvj4ET_zlBAwGZFZuYG2qyLPPOTX8M2XR6QfAw8CN2NiF7A8Rro-oOXDNRlssYRWhvUTUNJJ3BGdBREIXg7m49OmbTk3O0i4w8RdX74mvOozcsmBDxpfZRE/s1600/p5_mummy.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="691" data-original-width="686" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiINhw63yBlMlkjRLXce6MBxvj4ET_zlBAwGZFZuYG2qyLPPOTX8M2XR6QfAw8CN2NiF7A8Rro-oOXDNRlssYRWhvUTUNJJ3BGdBREIXg7m49OmbTk3O0i4w8RdX74mvOozcsmBDxpfZRE/s640/p5_mummy.png" width="634" /></a></div>
<br />
I was also able to red-point another route I bolted this
fall “Scenic Byway” M9+ the newest addition to the highway wall in Provo.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A four-bolt roof joins in with the same
dagger “Highway to Hell” tops out on.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1F9U4pJ-Bj_ArnlRnJHBFY_rgWxJQYkYnDGvL753FTFOAdGPwigZb0mCEVsAAJNoqAMfRSy4SERP5BPG3tpgtRp2_NTChWRMFF1vTlmiWTQ3fVjqAEZKOduNZRkKYDk1Ckj7iVHG0onk/s1600/P6_scenic.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="669" data-original-width="694" height="616" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1F9U4pJ-Bj_ArnlRnJHBFY_rgWxJQYkYnDGvL753FTFOAdGPwigZb0mCEVsAAJNoqAMfRSy4SERP5BPG3tpgtRp2_NTChWRMFF1vTlmiWTQ3fVjqAEZKOduNZRkKYDk1Ckj7iVHG0onk/s640/P6_scenic.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;"> Photo: Niels Meyer</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<h3>
January & February:</h3>
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Generally no-brainer months for ice and this year was
fortunately no different.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Guiding and
teaching ice festival clinics brought me to Ouray to sample some of their
reliable flows.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ5ncUK4Qv9A4jRliJ4Kh8z4CCmfBRhyv_XzHnZgDKzzJqgV7CRCMKAabIOG2VphRtD3zAdNTNa7nZY613bAnj0Z7m4tao1gYCS1N3xOWMAAtddoN6JQR_I5oRpm7Ry414xvVrsa-SAdg/s1600/p7_charmin.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="695" data-original-width="687" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ5ncUK4Qv9A4jRliJ4Kh8z4CCmfBRhyv_XzHnZgDKzzJqgV7CRCMKAabIOG2VphRtD3zAdNTNa7nZY613bAnj0Z7m4tao1gYCS1N3xOWMAAtddoN6JQR_I5oRpm7Ry414xvVrsa-SAdg/s640/p7_charmin.png" width="632" /></a></div>
<br />
Also, the final yet to be red-pointed routes that I had
bolted in Provo saw ascents.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Two M8/9
routes in Provo’s “Fang Amphitheater” that require spray-ice came into shape.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwuo1AuKg7Qt-npzJQD0sko3WdD7IBKL2oD4G-03SFcVF-npDO7i6y6VJloKRPvuECnXeYv1UxQ0yUeCiYflTV0fgpYun8pczZx_IZNkIyfNdELGbDW6r9t_QvzJcp00NlZKAZd4ZoP5I/s1600/p8_kenny.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="678" data-original-width="683" height="634" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwuo1AuKg7Qt-npzJQD0sko3WdD7IBKL2oD4G-03SFcVF-npDO7i6y6VJloKRPvuECnXeYv1UxQ0yUeCiYflTV0fgpYun8pczZx_IZNkIyfNdELGbDW6r9t_QvzJcp00NlZKAZd4ZoP5I/s640/p8_kenny.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">Mark Pugliese on “Kenny Sloggins” M8/9</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
March:</h3>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In addition to some days on the normal local circuit, I
caught the North East face of Storm Mountain in Big Cottonwood Canyon in nice
condition at the end of the month.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s
one of the true alpine ice routes around the Wasatch. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Its upper elevation, and North East exposure
generally cause it to form when everyone is complaining about how it’s too warm
to ice climb.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWIHxAxfoliTw6DksDQ68y9oNHRWI6xexH6s8yB4EM_B8uzBksEpR52Z2D1WyMBNVJxcBnaHd0rpvSBVatrTf2_Pj4Xt1nRSyM3wXFPACZ0RaNRK5Dgct-PnBMraDFwJv0np1IXMmal88/s1600/p9_storm.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="660" data-original-width="512" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWIHxAxfoliTw6DksDQ68y9oNHRWI6xexH6s8yB4EM_B8uzBksEpR52Z2D1WyMBNVJxcBnaHd0rpvSBVatrTf2_Pj4Xt1nRSyM3wXFPACZ0RaNRK5Dgct-PnBMraDFwJv0np1IXMmal88/s640/p9_storm.png" width="494" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">Jake Current on the NE Face of Storm</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
April:</h3>
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
April means the end of Ice Season in most places.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fortunately, April started a seven-week stint
of guiding and personal climbing in the Central Alaska Range.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was able to guide two successful ascents of
“Ham and Eggs” (V WI4, 5.8) to the summit of the Moose’s Tooth, as well as the
SW Ridge of Peak 11,300 (V WI3, 5.8).<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTYtFtmk6XOm5ycZQBDv8iwizJk1qwWvIeMRP9mw9wRR6eGzLFPhE6BAELgfDAM8iDDZx1Bi5crDnHHstMS52FqgvuJXsn5oHmVW2zgW3haQiepKAr7PvEL0bnSTQJQc4K3PbzTIOmOU4/s1600/p_10ham.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="692" data-original-width="515" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTYtFtmk6XOm5ycZQBDv8iwizJk1qwWvIeMRP9mw9wRR6eGzLFPhE6BAELgfDAM8iDDZx1Bi5crDnHHstMS52FqgvuJXsn5oHmVW2zgW3haQiepKAr7PvEL0bnSTQJQc4K3PbzTIOmOU4/s640/p_10ham.png" width="476" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<h3>
May:</h3>
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In May, I teamed up with another local Salt Lake climber Sam
Novey.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We had ambitious plans of trying
the Moonflower Buttress on Mount Hunter and the Infinite Spur on Mount Foraker
over a 20-day period.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The weather this
year in May was very unsettled in the Central Alaska Range.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We attempted The Moonflower four times over
15-days.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Each time we were either
stormed off, or encountered dangerous avalanche conditions and bailed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even on our best effort we had to endure four
hours of intense spindrift under a tarp to get in 2,800’ of good climbing on
the “Bibler-Klewin route”. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWAMSJRBF5SOy20kujh4oRItVxhPn6iolTGLtAfE7rijqzFFGYEztU7EjtQ6hpIA8TqUfqC8vx8lkXeCgXOGf3G50l1tBi7uF2XKDMAueU9zFihrDtbr3FuwDGFIaPfDM3rcAptSeOppE/s1600/moonflower.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="692" data-original-width="508" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWAMSJRBF5SOy20kujh4oRItVxhPn6iolTGLtAfE7rijqzFFGYEztU7EjtQ6hpIA8TqUfqC8vx8lkXeCgXOGf3G50l1tBi7uF2XKDMAueU9zFihrDtbr3FuwDGFIaPfDM3rcAptSeOppE/s640/moonflower.png" width="468" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Sam Novey in the Mcnerthney ice dagger, we had both just freed “the
prow” our first time on it, but the stoke turned to concern as the snow began
to fall.<br />
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<br />
<h3>
June:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></h3>
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I arrived back home from Alaska the first day of June, and
enjoyed some warm sunny weather for three weeks before the duffels were
reloaded and the European Alps season began.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I am based in Chamonix, France for the summer, which is a great place to
climb ice during the summer months.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A
couple days of cold stormy weather is all it takes for granite corner systems
to ice up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The day after I arrived, I
decided to kick jet lag by soloing the central route on the North Face of the
Triangle to the top of Mont Blanc du Tacul, followed by the Cosmiques arête.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At AI3 M3 and probably ~1,500’ of climbing,
the central route made for a pleasant way to reconnect with the Mont Blanc Massif.
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsHq-HNoQMNWLfOfexO8FuJL2S7jFhPB_o4Trki8Qe6djely0GqnD-kbeTm_JdyaM1slrVhlP22ySJMTHogJDoPk1TMRLae8UTmrSF-UfhfGqU_iP2wKUYJnaj8lvhoJrw-FMeNLqAmDU/s1600/central.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsHq-HNoQMNWLfOfexO8FuJL2S7jFhPB_o4Trki8Qe6djely0GqnD-kbeTm_JdyaM1slrVhlP22ySJMTHogJDoPk1TMRLae8UTmrSF-UfhfGqU_iP2wKUYJnaj8lvhoJrw-FMeNLqAmDU/s640/central.jpeg" width="480" /></a></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<h3>
July:</h3>
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This summer there was no shortage of cold storms in the Alps.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Tino Villanueva and I managed to sneak in a
good morning on some of the chimneys high on the Midi.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We both had to meet clients at noon, but
climbed some fun water ice and rime features.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We would have sworn we had been transported to Patagonia. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwdJCN6yhIPi6zLzuucZQSCemOaYuVEMbc2nbh-WV8WtP-9KozboaNPAGLrIVlfYz30jYSgJ-ga9Rz3l-TUUV2GAqFYunh2HOMaDSAzAqOi-K_WKtOZq0TK6dXo68zn5sHw_LhYiAl9hk/s1600/p12_midi.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="701" data-original-width="557" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwdJCN6yhIPi6zLzuucZQSCemOaYuVEMbc2nbh-WV8WtP-9KozboaNPAGLrIVlfYz30jYSgJ-ga9Rz3l-TUUV2GAqFYunh2HOMaDSAzAqOi-K_WKtOZq0TK6dXo68zn5sHw_LhYiAl9hk/s640/p12_midi.png" width="508" /></a></div>
<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Qt4KDRQfrLsEbERQnp2UnrmskK1AaIfNwonXF1oC8mMHPOFqOd7uv_luOn99An0T_uaNbzygpMU1MAjbOZlid8a3LRjTkALbndb98h3nvimwm5hRof8Ftn0sorqjgcKdPjdx5Y7TDKU/s1600/p13_rime.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="630" data-original-width="1129" height="356" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Qt4KDRQfrLsEbERQnp2UnrmskK1AaIfNwonXF1oC8mMHPOFqOd7uv_luOn99An0T_uaNbzygpMU1MAjbOZlid8a3LRjTkALbndb98h3nvimwm5hRof8Ftn0sorqjgcKdPjdx5Y7TDKU/s640/p13_rime.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<h3>
August:</h3>
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When I initially hatched this plan of climbing ice all year,
I was most worried about August.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I got
lucky in the middle of the month when a big, cold, wet system lined up with my
days off.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I tried to find partners at the
last minute for a mixed route, but came up empty handed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I decided to solo a route I had climbed a
number of times before, the Chere Couloir (WI4- 800’) located on Mont Blanc du
Tacul.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The flash-freeze conditions made
for thin engaging climbing and an aerated 85-degree crux forced me to hunt
around for solid sticks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Below is a
photo from when I had guided it earlier in the season.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p><br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZycVMgOTQ0OaahU9DhY82N284a5TeMTcIXShcu4AeBJYdu7WwWAlyU2TgjEtP_rEmgH5iw0bjjfQKySjZRFXkpfWejU3RgcnBq0O6RVUpz60fk6nfKyV8PdaKHRXfMq8utP0u3h4OQtc/s1600/p_14chere.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="699" data-original-width="551" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZycVMgOTQ0OaahU9DhY82N284a5TeMTcIXShcu4AeBJYdu7WwWAlyU2TgjEtP_rEmgH5iw0bjjfQKySjZRFXkpfWejU3RgcnBq0O6RVUpz60fk6nfKyV8PdaKHRXfMq8utP0u3h4OQtc/s640/p_14chere.png" width="504" /></a></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<h3>
September/October:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></h3>
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The Chamonix season was an intense one.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On the last day of my season, September 1
(again on the Chere Couloir), I had guided 60 of the last 67 days.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was glad to have a few down days before
heading to India. We arrived in Dehli September 6, and traveled to<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the Suru Valley in Kashmir to try the
previously unclimbed peak “Rungofarka” (6495M).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Our first attempt was unsuccessful, only climbing about 2,000’ of terrain
up to AI5+M5 on Rungofarka’s North Face.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>After climbing as far as we could, there were no ledges for a bivouac in
sight, and in light snow we retreated on September 25.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p><br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_yPJwh1KCVLbrxIgba7lVeOK6hx1-dal6ytFVOdcJl-5fSRWoyp4vlalEB54uXKgFZgQN2lZelInH6C3IBSLtq8Unpb140FRw0M0H4heJ9MU_mlr6Lxnt1xlIrVL6UuilLfXbARhqI3k/s1600/p14_attempt1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="689" data-original-width="927" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_yPJwh1KCVLbrxIgba7lVeOK6hx1-dal6ytFVOdcJl-5fSRWoyp4vlalEB54uXKgFZgQN2lZelInH6C3IBSLtq8Unpb140FRw0M0H4heJ9MU_mlr6Lxnt1xlIrVL6UuilLfXbARhqI3k/s640/p14_attempt1.png" width="640" /></a></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
After a few rest days, a high-pressure system moved in and
we had changed our objective to the North Ridge. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioVu8Za530YtBz2iYTSgVS9jGmVCy-KIHhrTYi-zOEcp99Z4Cv291Ms6qw6qBQ-MSnXb4McDmzGyARnso74GgAayfWjIN82DSpi4s7xwwKBYwQfStKwTVOv2NYuqzVU-1QsYEY2B0Z5GY/s1600/p15_nridge.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="694" data-original-width="923" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioVu8Za530YtBz2iYTSgVS9jGmVCy-KIHhrTYi-zOEcp99Z4Cv291Ms6qw6qBQ-MSnXb4McDmzGyARnso74GgAayfWjIN82DSpi4s7xwwKBYwQfStKwTVOv2NYuqzVU-1QsYEY2B0Z5GY/s640/p15_nridge.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
It appeared to be steppier and have options
for bivouacs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On September 30<sup>th</sup>
we moved up to our Advanced Base Camp for the night.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Over the next four days we accomplished the
first peak ascent of Rungofarka via the North Ridge, a rowdy ~50-pitch route at
VI M6 WI4+.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It made for an eventful end
to a very cold year.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span>
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSkh_c0GtvT-OPs6bIO1MavVcB68JdVaPjZ-trRrgsM1Kqr9Bv_XQMNhTM8H13oZGOkrRc2hCpxs5YdXGv99-mZCvvZKelbd-uXs7NAQAHZfhtsT_snmz7Rv_XkQgrMRALNL_rl_7uOrY/s1600/p16_firstcrux.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="695" data-original-width="923" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSkh_c0GtvT-OPs6bIO1MavVcB68JdVaPjZ-trRrgsM1Kqr9Bv_XQMNhTM8H13oZGOkrRc2hCpxs5YdXGv99-mZCvvZKelbd-uXs7NAQAHZfhtsT_snmz7Rv_XkQgrMRALNL_rl_7uOrY/s640/p16_firstcrux.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbAiivrkOoMMQpEIjFBoyOGxrcYT0s6oA7ShB35rv9pKDEpwBa8ISabS8wr5-ktAeAkn1tS7EQF7hnV1zNgicXzUCH2T1t3JimD18YvX0rXpHIg3aOyzSW_bsAvCtfscLTuXmSqx3Kkdg/s1600/p17_headwall%255B1%255D.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="694" data-original-width="923" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbAiivrkOoMMQpEIjFBoyOGxrcYT0s6oA7ShB35rv9pKDEpwBa8ISabS8wr5-ktAeAkn1tS7EQF7hnV1zNgicXzUCH2T1t3JimD18YvX0rXpHIg3aOyzSW_bsAvCtfscLTuXmSqx3Kkdg/s640/p17_headwall%255B1%255D.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div style="text-align: center;">
The upper crux encountered the fourth day
on route at 6300 meters</div>
<br />
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ9XmUou_p5Ef1U3BWpH2TkWEeqLKeOj4pHuUMkAvuWRC4f1fvBEWw31jbuq66PStFsokakEpn4j-ThQizjOfX5p6bPH5FM2W06yzVYFfj1OOo2QIJp2zmQsYYxcdnylctbA9S7pOZ7Mo/s1600/p17_rungofarka.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="630" data-original-width="1128" height="356" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ9XmUou_p5Ef1U3BWpH2TkWEeqLKeOj4pHuUMkAvuWRC4f1fvBEWw31jbuq66PStFsokakEpn4j-ThQizjOfX5p6bPH5FM2W06yzVYFfj1OOo2QIJp2zmQsYYxcdnylctbA9S7pOZ7Mo/s640/p17_rungofarka.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
Our ascent took the left skyline of the
peak September 30 - October 4 in alpine style.</div>
<o:p></o:p></div>
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:DocumentProperties>
<o:Revision>0</o:Revision>
<o:TotalTime>0</o:TotalTime>
<o:Pages>1</o:Pages>
<o:Words>1353</o:Words>
<o:Characters>7717</o:Characters>
<o:Company>Liberty Mountain</o:Company>
<o:Lines>64</o:Lines>
<o:Paragraphs>18</o:Paragraphs>
<o:CharactersWithSpaces>9052</o:CharactersWithSpaces>
<o:Version>14.0</o:Version>
</o:DocumentProperties>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin-top:0in;
mso-para-margin-right:0in;
mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt;
mso-para-margin-left:0in;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<!--EndFragment--><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<br />
For next couple weeks I plan to thaw out, and chill with my
wife and our cat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’m sure I’ll be ready
to lace up the boots in November, and keep the streak alive!<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<i><br /></i>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpmzzWJCx3M6y8SYR3UMolMIrYLt57UFNNMfFCorp6n7Zod7XlCdjNiwy2BUoCXZehtuHAg9rQFhLORK67C-2sBmk7U2kGnHHrqoA4lSf7FuMsT-4VpidMxeHR3wK8FDDf-dCIg8ZV8sc/s1600/Alan_Rousseau.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="773" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpmzzWJCx3M6y8SYR3UMolMIrYLt57UFNNMfFCorp6n7Zod7XlCdjNiwy2BUoCXZehtuHAg9rQFhLORK67C-2sBmk7U2kGnHHrqoA4lSf7FuMsT-4VpidMxeHR3wK8FDDf-dCIg8ZV8sc/s320/Alan_Rousseau.jpeg" width="247" /></a></div>
<i><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></i>
<i><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></i>
<i><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></i>
<i><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></i>
<i><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></i>
<i><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Alan Rousseau is an <span style="color: #333333;">AMGA, </span></span><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">IFMGA, and UIAGM </span></span><span style="color: #333333;">Certified Guide, and member of the Beal and Grivel athlete teams. Learn more about his climbing accomplishments <a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/page.aspx?name=alanrousseau" target="_blank">here</a> </span></span></i></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
_________<br />
<br />
Like what you read? Share it with a friend.Liberty Mountainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03093638744889511588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-914471312709317608.post-50355526471291783912017-10-18T09:42:00.000-06:002017-10-18T09:42:54.308-06:00Gear Review: Beal Phantom Harness<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcj8mzAnza24pHy7FtajIerU7Bir_v_1mcY2OcSxfQBWq0nDibpeWxSdg4qHyFuddTSv_qfHD_0SNUO9FKJmK6hTVmf12s137p9oOsIPGuuis09GbuHrPrn8s_w-Zlqlnex128RtJFAqU/s1600/SA-Boven-BrendanLeader-Urisk-3-PhotoGusJvR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="853" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcj8mzAnza24pHy7FtajIerU7Bir_v_1mcY2OcSxfQBWq0nDibpeWxSdg4qHyFuddTSv_qfHD_0SNUO9FKJmK6hTVmf12s137p9oOsIPGuuis09GbuHrPrn8s_w-Zlqlnex128RtJFAqU/s640/SA-Boven-BrendanLeader-Urisk-3-PhotoGusJvR.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: <span style="background-color: white; font-family: AtlasGrotesk, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">Gustav Janse van Rensburg </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{e2eb9f54-c4b0-45c6-a659-21fa7a001d8f}{175}" paraid="932878138" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Beal harnesses have yet to become a common sight at US cra</span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">gs, however, with some new additions to the line and easy availability, Beal is poised to be a major player in the harness arena. The newly designed for 2016 Phantom harness falls into the category of </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">lightweight</span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">, top of the line sport climbing harnesses. </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">As I packed for my recent sport climbing trip to South Africa, I took a gamble on the Phantom having received a new harness just days before leaving. I yanked the tags off and threw the harness in my pack hoping I wouldn’t regret shelving my old harness without ever roping up in the Phantom. And the result? This thing is not only a solid option in the market, but hands down takes the win as my new favorite harness and my recommendation to anyone looking for the best performance harness out there. Let’s take a closer look at why this harness demands not to be overlooked stacked up against the best of the best.</span><span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{e2eb9f54-c4b0-45c6-a659-21fa7a001d8f}{175}" paraid="932878138" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{e2eb9f54-c4b0-45c6-a659-21fa7a001d8f}{181}" paraid="1011561018" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Roping up</span><span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{e2eb9f54-c4b0-45c6-a659-21fa7a001d8f}{199}" paraid="1750095523" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">I slipped the Phantom on, easily adjusted the </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="SpellingError SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; background-image: url(data:image/gif; background-position: 0% 100%; background-repeat: repeat no-repeat; border-bottom-color: transparent; border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">stetchy</span></span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> ‘butt straps’ to hold the leg loops where I wanted them and went about my pre-climbing stretching and prepping routine. My turn to rope up came, and I went looking for my harness. A moment of ‘shoot I forgot my </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">harness’</span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> flashed through my mind before I realized ‘wait a minute, I’m already wearing it.</span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> Duh.</span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">’ That’s how minimalistic and perfectly fitted this harness is. </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">But ultimately the comfort of a harness for ground walking is trumped by taking it into the vertical realm.</span><span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{e2eb9f54-c4b0-45c6-a659-21fa7a001d8f}{199}" paraid="1750095523" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{e2eb9f54-c4b0-45c6-a659-21fa7a001d8f}{205}" paraid="1717409690" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Pitch one</span><span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{e2eb9f54-c4b0-45c6-a659-21fa7a001d8f}{213}" paraid="2077238137" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Love at first climb! As I moved up the rock I tried to pay attention to my sweet new harness to analyze </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">whether I had made the right choice in ditching the harness I previously swore by. Well I had a lot of trouble doing so because I could hardly tell I was wearing a harness at all. At the top of the pitch I called take and weighted the harness for the first time. Perfection. The leg loops and waist belt stayed snug distributing the pressure evenly without digging </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">in or pinching my… family jewels. But fortunately, I did not fall on my warm up so testing was left to be done.</span><span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{e2eb9f54-c4b0-45c6-a659-21fa7a001d8f}{213}" paraid="2077238137" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI1Aw0vak7ZBIOTTc-yh6f5TXgQm5TVg1LsykWhyphenhyphen1f2gT7wGrWBuKr8uukC280jQCEcqx8wfB1wNVjadsl1cGX02Fgl-4ICrN1ff55iNDA1uB8_IaYX4XEE13UadZACMIab5t4_y1knJA/s1600/SA-Boven-BrendanLeader-TheBeast%252813c%2529-2-PhotoAimeeBelt-SM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1068" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI1Aw0vak7ZBIOTTc-yh6f5TXgQm5TVg1LsykWhyphenhyphen1f2gT7wGrWBuKr8uukC280jQCEcqx8wfB1wNVjadsl1cGX02Fgl-4ICrN1ff55iNDA1uB8_IaYX4XEE13UadZACMIab5t4_y1knJA/s640/SA-Boven-BrendanLeader-TheBeast%252813c%2529-2-PhotoAimeeBelt-SM.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: Aimee Belt</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{e2eb9f54-c4b0-45c6-a659-21fa7a001d8f}{219}" paraid="601506947" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Catching big air</span><span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{e2eb9f54-c4b0-45c6-a659-21fa7a001d8f}{227}" paraid="1552721257" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">The line I was working on my trip was not for the faint of heart as the crux demanded skipping two clips in a row and facing a 40 footer if I blew the final fierce move to clip the next bolt. I blew it. Over and over and over. Guess what? I’m writing this review now, so the harness did its job. The whips were so buttery smooth and comfy that I could just about get away with chalking up my </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="SpellingError SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; background-image: url(data:image/gif; background-position: 0% 100%; background-repeat: repeat no-repeat; border-bottom-color: transparent; border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">redpoint</span></span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> failures to simply wanting to build up frequent flyer miles in the Phantom. Just about.</span><span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{e2eb9f54-c4b0-45c6-a659-21fa7a001d8f}{227}" paraid="1552721257" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{e2eb9f54-c4b0-45c6-a659-21fa7a001d8f}{233}" paraid="116248261" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Day in, day out</span><span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{e2eb9f54-c4b0-45c6-a659-21fa7a001d8f}{239}" paraid="1982787772" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">For better or worse, I spent an awful lot of time putting the Phantom through the ringer with big whips and lots of hanging on bolts. I never once c</span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">omplained about my hips hurting. Even shirtless I could go all day without experiencing any of the dreaded chaffing or looking like I was wearing a red skin belt at the end of the day. Near the end of the trip when the temperatures started to rise, I got to check out the breathability of the harness and was mega impressed. I didn’t even get the sexy sweat ring on my t-shirt I’ve experienced in many harnesses.</span><span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{e2eb9f54-c4b0-45c6-a659-21fa7a001d8f}{241}" paraid="371028024" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFnRruKWl1x0af_OYcEjKOw8VM1RpYTwEfxNZ-2l9MrjCE1rsZhTbuA5XyKZmQYcUYTdvEbtYpqr9u7ryI7-GcOtolduw1JuUUcjTR-QaDjbFaa1T-uxks5VfWSYp9YYnJewmSNG1iQWA/s1600/Beal+Phantom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="700" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFnRruKWl1x0af_OYcEjKOw8VM1RpYTwEfxNZ-2l9MrjCE1rsZhTbuA5XyKZmQYcUYTdvEbtYpqr9u7ryI7-GcOtolduw1JuUUcjTR-QaDjbFaa1T-uxks5VfWSYp9YYnJewmSNG1iQWA/s400/Beal+Phantom.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{e2eb9f54-c4b0-45c6-a659-21fa7a001d8f}{241}" paraid="371028024" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{e2eb9f54-c4b0-45c6-a659-21fa7a001d8f}{247}" paraid="2083053495" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">FACTS, FIGURES AND COMPARISONS</span><span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{5ac29b37-60a7-44e2-a54b-016b44e5a849}{8}" paraid="2146385369" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">For comparisons I will stack the Phantom up against the lightest performance harnesses from </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Petzl</span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> (</span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="SpellingError SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; background-image: url(data:image/gif; background-position: 0% 100%; background-repeat: repeat no-repeat; border-bottom-color: transparent; border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Sitta</span></span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> and </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="SpellingError SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; background-image: url(data:image/gif; background-position: 0% 100%; background-repeat: repeat no-repeat; border-bottom-color: transparent; border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Hirundos</span></span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">) and Black Diamond (Zone).</span><span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{5ac29b37-60a7-44e2-a54b-016b44e5a849}{8}" paraid="2146385369" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{5ac29b37-60a7-44e2-a54b-016b44e5a849}{14}" paraid="1489805404" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Price</span><span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{5ac29b37-60a7-44e2-a54b-016b44e5a849}{42}" paraid="1912389223" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">I list this first as some readers may have heard enough about how awesome the Phantom is already and this final factor will put them over the edge and on the way to the gear shop. The Phantom comes in at a killer </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="SpellingError SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; background-image: url(data:image/gif; background-position: 0% 100%; background-repeat: repeat no-repeat; border-bottom-color: transparent; border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">pricepoint</span></span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> of 69.95! The Black Diamond Zone or the </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Petzl</span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="SpellingError SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; background-image: url(data:image/gif; background-position: 0% 100%; background-repeat: repeat no-repeat; border-bottom-color: transparent; border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Hirundos</span></span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> will set you back 99.95 </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">And</span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> the </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Petzl</span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="SpellingError SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; background-image: url(data:image/gif; background-position: 0% 100%; background-repeat: repeat no-repeat; border-bottom-color: transparent; border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Sitta</span></span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> costs a baffling 169.95.</span><span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{5ac29b37-60a7-44e2-a54b-016b44e5a849}{42}" paraid="1912389223" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{5ac29b37-60a7-44e2-a54b-016b44e5a849}{48}" paraid="1118222910" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Weight</span><span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{5ac29b37-60a7-44e2-a54b-016b44e5a849}{74}" paraid="239970706" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">The Phantom comes in at 325 grams (size medium) compared to 298 g for the Black Diamond Zone, 280 g for the </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Petzl</span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="SpellingError SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; background-image: url(data:image/gif; background-position: 0% 100%; background-repeat: repeat no-repeat; border-bottom-color: transparent; border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Hirundos</span></span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> and 270 g for the </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Petzl</span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="SpellingError SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; background-image: url(data:image/gif; background-position: 0% 100%; background-repeat: repeat no-repeat; border-bottom-color: transparent; border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Sitta</span></span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">. This makes the Phantom the heaviest of the bunch by 25-55 grams. </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">If less than an ounce of weight makes the difference between sending </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">or</span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> falling, take one less sip of water or snip a few strands of hair off before you leave the ground. Practically speaking, the Phantom is right on par with the lightest of the light.</span><span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{5ac29b37-60a7-44e2-a54b-016b44e5a849}{80}" paraid="616881269" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkLV0chKxMyl9VJ1YqKDktN35WieSErE39-EuYXDZXdAYiIBBlbWduE-0U-LsfOvT0onrdqkt9g2RT57ZjuG41zeDYf76iAp8pkpqe1H_EwZ3WqHoVp96EAaW4crxUvZ7xoE8AzRADiTQ/s1600/Urisk+the+Rustic+Brownie+%25285.11%2529+photographer%253A+Dirk+Smith+%255BIG%253Aafricandirk%255D+close.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="512" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkLV0chKxMyl9VJ1YqKDktN35WieSErE39-EuYXDZXdAYiIBBlbWduE-0U-LsfOvT0onrdqkt9g2RT57ZjuG41zeDYf76iAp8pkpqe1H_EwZ3WqHoVp96EAaW4crxUvZ7xoE8AzRADiTQ/s640/Urisk+the+Rustic+Brownie+%25285.11%2529+photographer%253A+Dirk+Smith+%255BIG%253Aafricandirk%255D+close.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: <span style="background-color: white; font-family: AtlasGrotesk, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; text-align: start; white-space: pre-wrap;">Dirk Smith </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{5ac29b37-60a7-44e2-a54b-016b44e5a849}{80}" paraid="616881269" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{5ac29b37-60a7-44e2-a54b-016b44e5a849}{80}" paraid="616881269" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Sizing</span><span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{5ac29b37-60a7-44e2-a54b-016b44e5a849}{92}" paraid="218479534" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">This has always been a downfall of </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Petzl</span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> harnesses for me. The leg loops on a small are way too tight but the waist belt of a medium cinches to the buckle and could stand to be tighter. Keep in mind I’ve got the standard rock climber’s chicken legs so I’ve never quite understood this. The Beal Phantom, however, allows me to wear a size small and the leg loops fit perfect. I find the same with Black Diamond harnesses and looking at the spec sheets of each harness shows the same. Size the Phantom as you would for a BD harness and as you wish you could for a </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Petzl</span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">.</span><span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{5ac29b37-60a7-44e2-a54b-016b44e5a849}{92}" paraid="218479534" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{5ac29b37-60a7-44e2-a54b-016b44e5a849}{98}" paraid="974553198" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Comfort</span><span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{5ac29b37-60a7-44e2-a54b-016b44e5a849}{108}" paraid="214422790" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Best in class, hands down. Beal </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">attributes the comfort to</span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> ‘Web-Core’ technology meaning the loops of the harness are each a single structural component (as best as I understand). I call it </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">the first night at home in your comfy bed after sleeping on a camping pad in the dirt.</span><span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{5ac29b37-60a7-44e2-a54b-016b44e5a849}{108}" paraid="214422790" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{5ac29b37-60a7-44e2-a54b-016b44e5a849}{114}" paraid="1804538418" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Gear loops</span><span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{5ac29b37-60a7-44e2-a54b-016b44e5a849}{122}" paraid="733127589" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">The gear loops are the perfect blend of rigid and flexible. A plastic piece fits over a webbing loop meaning the four gear loops stay open perfectly. This is similar to the BD design but the key difference is that the plastic part stops farther from the waist belt so the loops are free to move with your body. I find the BD design good but a little clunky compared to the Beal. The </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Petzl</span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> loops are stiff, not as accessible and the rear loops are too small.</span><span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{5ac29b37-60a7-44e2-a54b-016b44e5a849}{122}" paraid="733127589" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{5ac29b37-60a7-44e2-a54b-016b44e5a849}{128}" paraid="1174176170" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Durability</span><span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{5ac29b37-60a7-44e2-a54b-016b44e5a849}{138}" paraid="1128472926" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">To some extent durability is always going to be reduced if you want the lightest gear out there. The Phantom is right on point with the durability of the lightweight options from </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Petzl</span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> and Black Diamond, having worn each of those brands extensively. With this said, I do not find any of the lightweight harness </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">to scream durable. If you are a weekend climber, this harness will last you years. Full time climbers, not as long as you might like, but again, on par with the other leading brands.</span><span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRuVHMu8usxNZEFO7PW13HWnQZgHEjYOQNpfhJhYjIFslUhFb2ScstTaAv-fXrHmqjsXM38EbvQLl5EU0Q6pkgnAYybQjBzCRj5d9nMcCqhufF4Xl6fKDJtIj3x7C9kXwE-VJYpwLn0FA/s1600/BEal+Phantom2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="700" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRuVHMu8usxNZEFO7PW13HWnQZgHEjYOQNpfhJhYjIFslUhFb2ScstTaAv-fXrHmqjsXM38EbvQLl5EU0Q6pkgnAYybQjBzCRj5d9nMcCqhufF4Xl6fKDJtIj3x7C9kXwE-VJYpwLn0FA/s400/BEal+Phantom2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{5ac29b37-60a7-44e2-a54b-016b44e5a849}{144}" paraid="367943594" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Looks</span><span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{5ac29b37-60a7-44e2-a54b-016b44e5a849}{150}" paraid="530327322" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">The most important consideration, right? The Phantom is the perfect blend flashy and s</span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">ubtle. The gear loops are neon green for the flash factor and the belt and loops are a flat black with subtle green highlights so you don’t feel like you’re blinding people with neon but still have a touch of flare.</span></div>
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{5ac29b37-60a7-44e2-a54b-016b44e5a849}{150}" paraid="530327322" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{5ac29b37-60a7-44e2-a54b-016b44e5a849}{156}" paraid="1582951164" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Wrap up</span><span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{5ac29b37-60a7-44e2-a54b-016b44e5a849}{164}" paraid="52211421" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">I would list a pros and cons of the harness, but frankly, there are no cons, only pros. The Beal Phantom is the best lightweight, high performance harness on the market. </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Go buy one now. </span><span class="TextRun SCXW230966602" lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Enough said.</span><span class="EOP SCXW230966602" data-ccp-props="{"201341983":0,"335559739":160,"335559740":259}" style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri_msfontservice" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
</div>
<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW230966602" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; clear: both; cursor: text; direction: ltr; font-family: 'Segoe UI', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; overflow: visible; padding: 0px; position: relative;">
<div class="Paragraph SCXW230966602" paraeid="{5ac29b37-60a7-44e2-a54b-016b44e5a849}{166}" paraid="76541871" style="-webkit-nbsp-mode: normal !important; -webkit-user-drag: none; -webkit-user-select: text; color: windowtext; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-wrap: break-word;">
<br /></div>
</div>
<br />
_________<br />
<br />
Like what you read? Share it with a friend.Liberty Mountainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03093638744889511588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-914471312709317608.post-43545782195273667692017-08-24T16:40:00.000-06:002017-08-24T16:40:34.089-06:00What Goes Into a Speed Attempt?<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikwaizXedEDdlpKedQi2ZrHx-yF7Tmc7_eHTO1SAYoh18XDNnMEMoE-BVadB2AE-Kefb1kznS2xuTnU5awa40ojswS9UtA9QnP7dCz7mBGlvrBhTQqH1JBXnp-QvMWhZgJyuUgk-OGtls/s1600/GOPR2282.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikwaizXedEDdlpKedQi2ZrHx-yF7Tmc7_eHTO1SAYoh18XDNnMEMoE-BVadB2AE-Kefb1kznS2xuTnU5awa40ojswS9UtA9QnP7dCz7mBGlvrBhTQqH1JBXnp-QvMWhZgJyuUgk-OGtls/s640/GOPR2282.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<i> Grivel and Beal Athlete Andy Dorais shares some of the planning and preparation that go into a speed attempt with a trip report of his and Jason's recent FKT on Mount Rainier's Liberty Ridge.</i></div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;">At the end of May a team comprised of Eric Carter, Nick Elson, and Colin Haley set the standard for Liberty Ridge with a time of <span class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-m_-2993168310538647436gmail-aBn">9:11 car to car</span>. This included the approach and climb of Liberty Ridge, topping out Liberty Cap, traversing a mile over to the true summit of Tahoma (Mount Rainier), and then skiing the Emmons Glacier back to the Trailhead. We had already been planning on going to Tahoma to ski Liberty Ridge when we heard of the fast time. Initially reluctant to go for their newly established speed record, we rationalized that good conditions trump reason and that we should just go for it.</span></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;">We've had a long friendly rivalry with Nick and Eric. Years ago, we wanted to set the FKT on Tahoma. We only had 48 hours free, so we drove to Washington, skied as fast was we could, and ended up summiting and accidentally skiing past Paradise into the Nisqually River Basin, confused by white out conditions. We did so in about 5 hours and were convinced that with better navigation and conditions we could ski Tahoma much faster. The following year a few weeks before we could return for a proper effort, Nick and Eric set the FKT with a time of 4:19 car to car. A couple weeks later we tried again and managed to lower that time to <span class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-m_-2993168310538647436gmail-aBn"><span class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-m_-2993168310538647436gmail-aQJ">3:57</span></span>. The following year, Eric and Nick got the last laugh, making the journey to the summit and back in <span class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-m_-2993168310538647436gmail-aBn"><span class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-m_-2993168310538647436gmail-aQJ">3:51</span></span>. We have yet to go back to try again on the faster Disappointment Cleaver route but were excited to continue the friendly competition on the more engaging and technical Liberty Ridge.</span></div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">As part of our preparation for the speed attempt, we needed to pare down our gear to only the necessary items, and then choose the lightest functional version of those items. Fortunately, climbing and ski mountaineering equipment has evolved greatly in the last few years and we now have some of the most thoughtfully engineered gear ever.</span></div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBBxqzt6q8DAqIxAx4lTk-cV45SdmdXwi2BVRGXlovrMrYxJ8B6rWdybBVyAqTI2fEEpMpPWpu3LB3P65BnjPyABzLH9LDXGKey18n3iGZFp8CkDNblr__U6ljzmoDE-iEBvB15arRmIc/s1600/FullSizeRender-9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBBxqzt6q8DAqIxAx4lTk-cV45SdmdXwi2BVRGXlovrMrYxJ8B6rWdybBVyAqTI2fEEpMpPWpu3LB3P65BnjPyABzLH9LDXGKey18n3iGZFp8CkDNblr__U6ljzmoDE-iEBvB15arRmIc/s640/FullSizeRender-9.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">We knew the climb would be mostly on snow, but that we might need technical tools and crampons capable of short sections of steep glacial ice, especially to cross the upper bergschrund. We both chose <a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/NTN16793/grivel-north-machine" target="_blank">Grivel North Machine</a> ice tools given their svelte weight and <a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/NTN17273" target="_blank">Grivel Skitour crampons</a> with a hybrid steel toe and aluminum heel. This is actually a design that we tried to make a few years ago, but our franken-crampons malfunctioned in practice. The Skitour crampon is specifically designed to be used with ski boots as the camming mechanism is on the toe rather than the heel so as to not interfere with the ski/walk mechanism of a ski boot. That might not seem all that important, but in practice it actually saves a few seconds with each transition.</span></div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;">We also used skimo race skis and bindings, mohair skins, ski crampons, lightweight ski mountaineering harnesses, and full carbon ski mountaineering boots. When attention is paid to each piece of gear, the overall effect is massive. I suspect our packs and overall gear weighed half of that of our standard mountaineering cousins, even though we carried a light rope and glacier gear as well. </span> </div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Moving on to nutrition, we believe that the only thing about which one should be dogmatic is to never be dogmatic. The following recommendations are simply what works for us. It's always good practice to test your nutrition and gear choices prior to any race or serious day in the mountains. </span></div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;">Leading up to a big event, we've found it important to have the body firing on clean energy. Driving up to Washington from Salt Lake, we stopped at a grocery store and bought dried fruit, cherries, kale salad, tomatoes and so forth to snack on. This is a big improvement over our historically bad choices of fast food. We both felt that our bowel health and energy levels were better for it. </span></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhnoaMe8GYVZ2uMBnBLPk_-cyd8iBIkD0I_VxkCNQZvbJlTpzQAGbuG_aabFnSuE__B3mlL0r0ENIIrWo5u0moR1G8k0FRioWixgkS_Cyoj885lG7fofW5rHMKhoJPL8X1VmwvRShr2EQ/s1600/IMG_3289.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhnoaMe8GYVZ2uMBnBLPk_-cyd8iBIkD0I_VxkCNQZvbJlTpzQAGbuG_aabFnSuE__B3mlL0r0ENIIrWo5u0moR1G8k0FRioWixgkS_Cyoj885lG7fofW5rHMKhoJPL8X1VmwvRShr2EQ/s640/IMG_3289.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">In the planning phase, another consideration is the amount of liquid to carry. Trying to find the right balance between weight and speed, it seems that weather and the duration of the effort are the most important factors. It was hot during our speed attempt and we elected to carry a little more than we normally would; about two liters. While humping the water weight up a mountain is important, it does little good if it goes unconsumed in the pack. To facilitate easier ingestion, we taped a soft flask with liquid to the shoulder strap of our packs. Such configured, we were able to take sips easily on the move rather than having to stop to get a bottle out of our packs. A bladder with tubing would suffice as well but we tend to eschew that system when there is potential for it to freeze. </span> </span></div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrgS_D7gyUCOkG4DL6tbLdU5n68fZvfef_J_SrgjZvxFMLxzEmVYtyzQLm58uhCa01pIKJ3UxtUJ9sIJpvvtZZTK63XM7SR3k-vmAikIJbPiDPYnDYneEvsZXp-uRqHtSRMEf9jOMlLIc/s1600/GOPR2272.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrgS_D7gyUCOkG4DL6tbLdU5n68fZvfef_J_SrgjZvxFMLxzEmVYtyzQLm58uhCa01pIKJ3UxtUJ9sIJpvvtZZTK63XM7SR3k-vmAikIJbPiDPYnDYneEvsZXp-uRqHtSRMEf9jOMlLIc/s400/GOPR2272.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;">Calories are also essential for sustained performance, but eating while going fast can be tricky. On any hard effort over an hour and a half we prefer at least 100 calories an hour. For the Liberty Ridge speed attempt, we optimistically planned for around seven hours. Based on previous experience, we both knew we could tolerate this rate and perhaps even a little more. We packed over 1000 calories in the form of gel mixed into our bottles with sports drink. Some people may not tolerate such a syrupy concoction, but it's the fastest way we've discovered to consume calories and liquid. Plus, all the mess and potential litter is dealt with the night before. </span></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;">Once again, carrying calories and actually consuming calories are very different. For both of us, it's really easy to focus on the task at hand and never actually eat or drink. Having cratered hard in the past, we've learned our lesson. Not only is becoming hypoglycemic uncomfortable, it can also be terribly dangerous in technical terrain. We now have a rule that we have to eat and drink something at least every hour when going hard. We both wear a watch and are pretty good about reminding one another to take a drink or eat something.</span></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;">One further tip is that moderate caffeine ingestion has been shown to improve endurance exercise performance. Most of the studies have shown this improvement in much shorter and more intense efforts but anecdotally, we enjoy the extra stimulus, particularly in the predawn hours when most of these foolish efforts begin.</span></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;">Thus prepared, we were anxious to actually get started. On Friday afternoon, we reconnoitered the start and made the decision to start in running shoes as the first couple miles of trail were a mess of snow patches, mud, and dry trail. That may run against some people's ethos, but we've always felt that the best practice is the one that is the most efficient.</span></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;">Saturday morning, we awoke easily before the alarm at 4:00 AM. We were fast walking/shuffling in the faint predawn light, trying to avoid breaking out in a run as we knew we needed to pace our effort. </span><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Everything went according to plan until about one hour into the effort. We felt strong, the conditions were fast, albeit slightly warm, and we were ahead of pace. That is until a ski snapped while while skinning through a small depression just before tree line. The day was over. The broken ski reflected our broken ambitions. St. Elmo's pass looked just minutes away but we were done before we could even really get started. </span></span></div>
</div>
<div>
<div class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-separator" style="clear: both;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-separator" style="clear: both;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: inherit;">Immediately, we got on the phone and started frantically calling Lars Kjerengtroen and Brian Harder, both of whom were en route to the mountain and with whom we hoped to ski the next day. Neither had extra race skis or access. We skied/limped out and started texting everyone we knew in the PNW. Eric Carter gave me Colin Haley's number and he very generously offered his personal skis but they wouldn't be available till Monday. Patrick Fink put me in touch with Ethan Linck, who did some leg work to find Todd Kilcup, who also very generously offered to let us borrow his race skis. In another stroke of luck, the bindings were mounted perfectly to Andy's boots. </span></div>
</div>
<div class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-separator" style="clear: both;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-separator" style="clear: both;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: inherit;">Four hours later, we had obtained the skis and were back in the White River area trying to rest for a second attempt. Unfortunately, we wouldn't be able to ski with our friends but fortunately, they were starting much earlier and we were hoping for a boot track for much of the route. That was practically a given as the rangers reported a number of parties already high on the route.</span></div>
</div>
<div class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-separator" style="clear: both;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-separator" style="clear: both;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: inherit;">The next morning, around 4:40, we were off. It was hard to control the pace early but we knew we would struggle with cramps due to the high cadence throughout the day. We didn't ask for them, but had been given the splits by friends who had talked with Carter et al. We could tell early on that we were making good time and the motivation was high as we chatted throughout the wooded section. </span></div>
</div>
<div class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-separator" style="clear: both;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-separator" style="clear: both;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: inherit;">We topped out St. Elmo's pass in just over 1:30, looked out over the Winthrop Glacier, and got really excited. The whole route was in view and the day had dawned clear and still. We raced across the glacier, hopping small crevasses, and fortunately found the way onto the Carbon Glacier around the low point of Curtis Ridge. </span></div>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwY5xuQAwG-aBgAlt0CwrHopuEkt2x-IoJ4b2ZxaKnCgK90g23TiV7UmkXRGhvdsdpZg4l9Nh5w4CMRpYTwFs326UBH90ONi7BykBG2Tfxn5Au0y3p7yTq47z4gUrWDSU3pC-BY2gGYek/s1600/GOPR2288.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwY5xuQAwG-aBgAlt0CwrHopuEkt2x-IoJ4b2ZxaKnCgK90g23TiV7UmkXRGhvdsdpZg4l9Nh5w4CMRpYTwFs326UBH90ONi7BykBG2Tfxn5Au0y3p7yTq47z4gUrWDSU3pC-BY2gGYek/s640/GOPR2288.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: inherit;"></span></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: inherit;">We contemplated roping up as we carried standard gear but the route was clear as other parties had found the best way. There was only one fairly sketchy snow bridge to cross right at the base of the ridge where we stopped for a moment to drink and eat. 2:45 had elapsed and we were still feeling strong. Further, our friends were visible, heading for Thumb Rock and we were looking forward to the distraction of chatting with them for a bit.</span></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div>
</div>
<div>
<div class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-separator" style="clear: both;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: inherit;">Catching up, Brian and Tyler stepped aside and offered encouragement. Lars put in a dig to stay ahead to make sure the booter was well groomed. We tried to get him to rally the rest with us as he is clearly stronger than an ox but he's a good friend and partner and stayed with the other guys.</span></div>
</div>
<div class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-separator" style="clear: both;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-separator" style="clear: both;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: inherit;">Out on the east side of the ridge, the sun was boiling and we started to really slow down. Both of us thought our hip flexors and adductors were going to betray us as we were starting to feel twinges of cramps. Never feeling aerobically taxed, we still agreed that a steady pace, even if slow, was the best strategy. We kept moving....barely.</span></div>
</div>
<div class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-separator" style="clear: both;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-separator" style="clear: both;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">We hit the bergschrund, and even though we knew to climb it at the high point, all the tracks heading that way had been erased by a slight stream of spindrift. There were some fresh tracks heading climber's left that we explored before coming to our senses and committing to action.</span> </span></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-separator" style="clear: both;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxE_daU6eQALKuhr5ukB-n5iAS5XfD94HFLPNMqBe_4W1Jnon6AJK11XWcQcRtdqXqqacVSn6x1K6EHb_lRvhnixpAC__Ek7ZnfHAO272cCTGYir4IBLpwK1WhgVIHR1XtBdcKaQr-xYc/s1600/GOPR2287.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxE_daU6eQALKuhr5ukB-n5iAS5XfD94HFLPNMqBe_4W1Jnon6AJK11XWcQcRtdqXqqacVSn6x1K6EHb_lRvhnixpAC__Ek7ZnfHAO272cCTGYir4IBLpwK1WhgVIHR1XtBdcKaQr-xYc/s400/GOPR2287.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-separator" style="clear: both;">
<div class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-separator" style="clear: both;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Over the schrund, a gentle breeze picked up and so did our pace. We hit the summit ridge, transitioned from crampons to skis, and hit the top of Liberty Cap in 5:27. Another race transition led to some of the worst skiing of the day on very fatigued legs that were quivering with the threat of cramps.</span> </span></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-separator" style="clear: both;">
<div class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-separator" style="clear: both;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Somehow, the governor began to release it's choke hold and we were able to actually skin to the true summit at a more reasonable pace. We hit Columbia Crest in 5:57 and found about a dozen people on the summit. The mood was festive and we were quickly outed as two dorks on skinny skis, carbon boots, and tight pants are obviously up to something stupid. The folks on the summit were kind and friendly, offering encouragement as we transitioned to skiing for the final time.</span></span></div>
</div>
<div class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-separator" style="clear: both;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-separator" style="clear: both;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: inherit;">Neither of us had skied the Emmon's previously and so we skied with some caution until down to Camp Sherman. From there's we traversed skier's right onto the Interglacier and rallied with absolutely zero grace through some truly horrific isothermic snow. Back in the woods, we followed the up track, dodging the Memorial day crowds, until we reached our shoes.</span></div>
</div>
<div class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-separator" style="clear: both;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-separator" style="clear: both;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: inherit;">Jason was interested in pushing for a sub seven hour time but that ship had sailed with other inefficiencies higher up. We had two miles to run and ten minutes to do it. Even without the skis, boots, ice tools, etc we would be hard pressed to pull that off with specific training. Regardless, we pushed harder and harder the closer we got and made one last mad dash through the sloppy snow patch guarding the trailhead.</span></div>
</div>
<div class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-separator" style="clear: both;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div class="m_4457240994303792812m_6374376081607132771gmail-separator" style="clear: both;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Stopping the watch at 7:07, w</span><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">e sat on the road for a few minutes, pleased with the effort and how the day had gone, before making some food and waiting for the other guys to finish. As they walked in like more sane people, we cheered them on and slapped high fives for the successful mission all around.</span></span></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="gmail_extra">
</div>
</blockquote>
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "\22 trebuchet ms\22 " , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">_________</span></div>
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "\22 trebuchet ms\22 " , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Like what you read? Share it with a friend.</span></div>
Liberty Mountainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03093638744889511588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-914471312709317608.post-80308789584482267892017-06-26T10:27:00.000-06:002017-06-26T10:39:57.153-06:00Gearing Up for Alaska<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlBHNa-yXb71LAfn4qSWiVrzy-6c9oS-gAlaW31PdwcQ3XuD-MPUVZQ1ypECG1vHyoqOw9lczhu0MQvCv2eIzpJs4RwffAwN6DblI8aKeXDytKiuo9sF1R7DAbt08WAz7_yYPZj3jpPd8/s1600/gear.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlBHNa-yXb71LAfn4qSWiVrzy-6c9oS-gAlaW31PdwcQ3XuD-MPUVZQ1ypECG1vHyoqOw9lczhu0MQvCv2eIzpJs4RwffAwN6DblI8aKeXDytKiuo9sF1R7DAbt08WAz7_yYPZj3jpPd8/s640/gear.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Grivel and Beal athlete Alan Rousseau shares his thoughts on the gear necessary for a successful climbing trip to Alaska.</i><br />
<br />
This spring over the course of seven weeks I did three trips
into the Alaska Range.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Two of these
trips I was working as a mountain guide, and one was a personal trip.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Starting in mid April I guided the Ham and
Eggs route on the Moose’s Tooth in the Ruth Gorge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Late April I had a second client for another
trip up Ham and Eggs followed by an ascent of the SW ridge of peak 11,300 (a
mountain named by its elevation located in the West Fork of the Ruth
Gorge).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOwJR5bzqNTwQG4t-mPHqwO7aiNs7Y5SStB98dCBnK_ig7eHdDuJTw4ba0Gz3J4B1GvIugJTgmlumFAn9wyPyEsaKG27xgbyICqRpRYe5o6C8YYr6ov7xSr6uB4cX6AEc_dU1DQJ9FRzA/s1600/West_fork_ruth.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOwJR5bzqNTwQG4t-mPHqwO7aiNs7Y5SStB98dCBnK_ig7eHdDuJTw4ba0Gz3J4B1GvIugJTgmlumFAn9wyPyEsaKG27xgbyICqRpRYe5o6C8YYr6ov7xSr6uB4cX6AEc_dU1DQJ9FRzA/s640/West_fork_ruth.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3vnOy2Ps7cFkXqJZBB7I2sZNnBoUHXp5_rsc0F2LfngrtJY2MGWF6Pf5tjU-2TBlJl-JmAO_sZ9xCejb6XdizIqt940nngccRBu-0Ndyqft6RF4INJLGn5XemUrBXOxbb0CJLatZwvas/s1600/moonflower.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3vnOy2Ps7cFkXqJZBB7I2sZNnBoUHXp5_rsc0F2LfngrtJY2MGWF6Pf5tjU-2TBlJl-JmAO_sZ9xCejb6XdizIqt940nngccRBu-0Ndyqft6RF4INJLGn5XemUrBXOxbb0CJLatZwvas/s400/moonflower.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A look up the Moonflower</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
In May I met a friend of mine
from Salt Lake and we made several attempts on the North buttress of Mount
Hunter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With this much climbing planned
on a diversity of objectives my gear quiver was quite extensive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For which I am thankful for Liberty
Mountain’s support.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The focus of the
following article will be on equipment I used for these various objectives and
why they are suited well for climbing in the Alaska Range. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzD9TKXCQ3HAhud77fqbFLhQjoKxRe5KwsYYZSkLtr6yoP8rTU1ANx4ednv1Uc3RCEz9BUcqBBEtBcubwU3dgUS7zP8SFrzyjGNWR9vJKqO3Rr735fyr4_3LoFKaz4pSKCPrqQVhCZk-g/s1600/mooses_tooth.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1236" data-original-width="1600" height="494" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzD9TKXCQ3HAhud77fqbFLhQjoKxRe5KwsYYZSkLtr6yoP8rTU1ANx4ednv1Uc3RCEz9BUcqBBEtBcubwU3dgUS7zP8SFrzyjGNWR9vJKqO3Rr735fyr4_3LoFKaz4pSKCPrqQVhCZk-g/s640/mooses_tooth.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scoping the Mooses Tooth</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Mid April in Alaska can be a pretty cold time, however, with
spring arriving earlier and earlier I advised my clients that although it can
be cold; it’s better to be cold on an ice climb than show up and have it melted
out! I used warm double boots for all my trips into the range this year.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The boots I used fit well to both the <a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/756640/grivel-g20" target="_blank">Grivel G20</a>
and G22 crampons.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For the Moose’s Tooth
and Peak 11,300 I used the <a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/NTN11037/grivel-g22" target="_blank">G22 crampon</a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>For long moderate routes the dual front-point reduces calf and ankle
fatigue while providing a more solid platform.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpPwTHKn6lPpk6g1oX4Wur3Y_GvVtp4nInclRkMHkLCB0RfO7BGtpTcgYyTc1e87LWxYVzhS8b7nXGgtBBiCTE89aHNVmlb-1ZuMVf24CUbG-FD1rWsQF3o_VXKyNn8DF1A1jyBU01h3k/s1600/ham_and_eggs_rappels.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpPwTHKn6lPpk6g1oX4Wur3Y_GvVtp4nInclRkMHkLCB0RfO7BGtpTcgYyTc1e87LWxYVzhS8b7nXGgtBBiCTE89aHNVmlb-1ZuMVf24CUbG-FD1rWsQF3o_VXKyNn8DF1A1jyBU01h3k/s640/ham_and_eggs_rappels.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rapelling Ham and Eggs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The <a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/NTN16793/grivel-north-machine" target="_blank">North Machines</a> made for an excellent ice tool on “Ham and Eggs” and
Peak 11,300.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The swing weight is spot
on, and the pick angle works really well on the lower angle ice (60-75 degrees)
encountered on both of these routes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
Hammer and adze are also both the “real deal”. There has been a trend lately
with tools to make the adze and hammer smaller and smaller.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I feel on most tools out there the hammer is
too small to actually place a piton or picket, and the adze is not large enough
to really move some snow or chop a good bollard.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For big alpine routes it’s a huge advantage
to not have to carry an actual wall hammer to place a solid piton.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Grivel tools are the only ones I feel like I
can actually hammer with.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBeLBWj7ALibVEVS1308WY4t6HhIKvqCXm0yx1oy40lZdAMfP_Ul3TT9mlRxrPQtMG1O-qzpjtaT1Sf5oGass5f7A2UCrVx9BRmGR_ZAE44adG61vP9aHUSGXArLWHZL9cwzkay3zMGMI/s1600/11300_sorting_ropes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBeLBWj7ALibVEVS1308WY4t6HhIKvqCXm0yx1oy40lZdAMfP_Ul3TT9mlRxrPQtMG1O-qzpjtaT1Sf5oGass5f7A2UCrVx9BRmGR_ZAE44adG61vP9aHUSGXArLWHZL9cwzkay3zMGMI/s640/11300_sorting_ropes.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sorting ropes on Peak 11,300</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0tS8CFt6FtwJKiOkjGFYREAvZixsXd-jnkacL8_pBTpSs05kFZa3KNNtqmTOLFP2wnyI2dU0uM4TNgX6VOoCbOcmuFex2Q8YqsNVMtPsOBkLs7q5DnetDLiRq79ShtVdmzo7WS3UiZ8k/s1600/gray_rock_bivy_ropes_as_insulation.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0tS8CFt6FtwJKiOkjGFYREAvZixsXd-jnkacL8_pBTpSs05kFZa3KNNtqmTOLFP2wnyI2dU0uM4TNgX6VOoCbOcmuFex2Q8YqsNVMtPsOBkLs7q5DnetDLiRq79ShtVdmzo7WS3UiZ8k/s640/gray_rock_bivy_ropes_as_insulation.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Using ropes as insulation</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
When it comes to ropes there are endless options for routes
like these, all have their merits.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For
the Moose’s tooth, I used two, <a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/NTN15882/beal-gully-unicore" target="_blank">Beal Gullys (7.3mmx70m)</a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They are super light weight, and ultra water
resistant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is important to have two
ropes for the descent, and I feel fine about going with such a thin line since
there is little rock encountered on the route and therefore few sharp edges.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most of the pitches are full rope lengths on
this route so it’s nice to have less rope weight.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For the SW ridge of 11,300 I opted to carry a
Beal Gully on my back and for simplicity of handling the rope I used a single
Beal Opera (8.5mm).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Guiding a route like
the SW ridge the rope technique is changed often from long pitches, to simul
climbing, to short roping, and short pitching.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Being able to have one rope instead of two can shave hours off your time
at the end of guiding a big route.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For
the descent it was nice to have a light twin rope to use on the rappels.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some people prefer to use a 6mm cord for a tag
line rappelling, however in cold windy places I find the 6mm tangles up a bit
too much.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Although the 7.3 Gully is a little
heavier it tangles less, and if a rope gets stuck it’s nice to know both ropes
in your system are designed to take falls (should you have to lead up to
retrieve a stuck line).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p><br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq1KxeU8AynNmDR6ShntZgN5MTgrA8Ri0ftdtSrzMKwb7YHmH2jkKPJ0-pBkbPFJeiT4_zB0ZVgfUv2bepafdp9vnmr69CufiBTTBVfSNkHrvC67uwRC-tRCMtPmBYqGYlM2IOlxKg9DA/s1600/bollard_ham_and_eggs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq1KxeU8AynNmDR6ShntZgN5MTgrA8Ri0ftdtSrzMKwb7YHmH2jkKPJ0-pBkbPFJeiT4_zB0ZVgfUv2bepafdp9vnmr69CufiBTTBVfSNkHrvC67uwRC-tRCMtPmBYqGYlM2IOlxKg9DA/s640/bollard_ham_and_eggs.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bollard on Ham and Eggs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghm5YTRom782zpvs6K8BWs2Z_XzVzM_jsd1SruNF8WUlLnFmglV-ENF8zmc2vKy69MkMtKb6xk-EXf8qtnHvtF41saLe0_H5vh31NCCj_MAMt3si68CqujQFFFdW5SWPPolNxBYh97448/s1600/cornice_11300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghm5YTRom782zpvs6K8BWs2Z_XzVzM_jsd1SruNF8WUlLnFmglV-ENF8zmc2vKy69MkMtKb6xk-EXf8qtnHvtF41saLe0_H5vh31NCCj_MAMt3si68CqujQFFFdW5SWPPolNxBYh97448/s640/cornice_11300.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cornice at the top of peak 11,300</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
For the North buttress of Hunter, which has more difficult
technical climbing a “sendier” set up is nice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I changed my tools up to the <a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/6551/756046/grivel-tech-machine" target="_blank">Tech Machines</a>, which was nice to have a
solid match point for the harder mixed sections.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The tool’s pick angle is designed more for
vertical to overhanging terrain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The G20
crampon was my choice for this objective.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This lightweight crampon helps reduce fatigue, and using a mono point in
rock terrain is much more comfortable for me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>A mono point allows the climber to pivot ones foot on small edges without
levering off the hold.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was happy to
have it while freeing the Prow pitch, which used to have an A2 rating, and is
now generally referred to as M7-.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNA-3ms4FL4QBhoRqTLBYniWk4nrUEY71EXKji2jw9EnelEdHaR0WXdqeTSvayqT7ZDndfmf_qWMxSwEQTZ9yPeKD8_xMull8cMMfFhRJJuPcqklHUHkd0RS4SDuwuWcz7MEmwQLQHuxg/s1600/moonflowerpitch9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNA-3ms4FL4QBhoRqTLBYniWk4nrUEY71EXKji2jw9EnelEdHaR0WXdqeTSvayqT7ZDndfmf_qWMxSwEQTZ9yPeKD8_xMull8cMMfFhRJJuPcqklHUHkd0RS4SDuwuWcz7MEmwQLQHuxg/s640/moonflowerpitch9.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moonflower pitch 9</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
For
the Moonflower our rope set up also changed to a <a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5469/NTN17101/beal-joker-unicore" target="_blank">Beal joker (9.1mm)</a> and a Beal
gully.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For the harder pitches and
pendulums on the route I prefer to have a rope over 9mm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The last thing I want to be thinking about in
the crux is if my rope is on a sharp edge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I like climbing on skinny ropes, but there is a time and place for
it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ask yourself what benefits you will
gain by using a real skinny cord, and see if any apply to the climb you have at
hand.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If its likely the leader or second
will fall in rock terrain, or if jugging lines is a possibility think hard
about if the skinniest rope is the right choice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXzrxnZb3hE0qkhyphenhyphenIpILY643GJbRhzTZ53Fkpnroigb-SfD2N1dsn5OkT6tp9c0fadMGcoD1aM4z-PfaJSvPgKDo59UljOo6cqxB5GaDLXa8XuvMylOPqlCpTmIg_s8TTfCPsLlRdivJs/s1600/bivy_ledge_descent.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXzrxnZb3hE0qkhyphenhyphenIpILY643GJbRhzTZ53Fkpnroigb-SfD2N1dsn5OkT6tp9c0fadMGcoD1aM4z-PfaJSvPgKDo59UljOo6cqxB5GaDLXa8XuvMylOPqlCpTmIg_s8TTfCPsLlRdivJs/s640/bivy_ledge_descent.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
The pieces of gear that I used for all of these objectives
were the <a href="https://gearjunkie.com/grivel-stealth-climbing-helmet-review" target="_blank">Grivel Stealth helmet</a>, Grivel Sigma K8g and plume twin gate
carabiners, Beal Mirage Harness, <a href="http://cypherclimbing.com/products-quickdraws/mydas-quickdraw" target="_blank">Cypher mydas draws</a> and dyneema slings, and a
Cilo Gear 34B pack.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The stealth helmet
is super light and surprisingly durable.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The adjustment systems are simple and unlike most helmets with a “turn
knob adjustment” the stealth’s adjustments will not freeze on you.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Grivel twin gate carabiners have been a
game changer for me, especially in cold environments.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was so tired of having lockers freeze on me
I began belaying with non-lockers on big cold alpine routes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These twin gates have little surface area to
freeze and once you get the hang of them they are easy to operate one handed
with gloves on.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGjSrSrLUg00bfC0iUQAk-i20mQwjf9wNRhUDHUL2m2Lme86b6_vmKiK650WtoYtXS07ukhEqomOJ9CNx7mhEtNFF76nAPLTzbEldbzQ8S0Up71DM6iduxOiznZ5PKVBjtH8pUzS9na0M/s1600/11300descent_bivy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGjSrSrLUg00bfC0iUQAk-i20mQwjf9wNRhUDHUL2m2Lme86b6_vmKiK650WtoYtXS07ukhEqomOJ9CNx7mhEtNFF76nAPLTzbEldbzQ8S0Up71DM6iduxOiznZ5PKVBjtH8pUzS9na0M/s640/11300descent_bivy.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bivy on the descent of Peak 11,300</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The Beal Mirage harness packs
small, is lightweight, and has enough surface area to help keep circulation to
your legs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Weight savings is key with
all the gear you have to bring up on these routes, the cypher mydas carabiners
helped out a lot in this department.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
used four mydas sport draws and 6 mydas alpine draws with dyneema slings on the
moonflower.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The last piece of gear I‘ll
talk about is the Cilo gear 34B pack.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This bag has been with me for several years, hundreds of days of use,
and the dyneema keeps on givin’ er.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
is small enough to still climb well, but if you go light you can fit a few days
of kit in it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Check out Cilo gear’s line
of packs all handmade in the USA.<br />
<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEhVsTZaiDpMY_sslk2YToN75Nbd32DdT27t0DtH-i9yqmIHXYXtPaOpC4HtOZPtRpg49Hjc6GN1rLdcI7sxjcewr7P2xV71_i2LbVj1EeA1yn42hmWM9P2OOgK_UqKamOn79imZg2lKE/s1600/cook_tent_below_mooses_tooth.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEhVsTZaiDpMY_sslk2YToN75Nbd32DdT27t0DtH-i9yqmIHXYXtPaOpC4HtOZPtRpg49Hjc6GN1rLdcI7sxjcewr7P2xV71_i2LbVj1EeA1yn42hmWM9P2OOgK_UqKamOn79imZg2lKE/s640/cook_tent_below_mooses_tooth.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cook tent at the base of Mooses Tooth</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjzDHOZkWQXwantLk1NmeIXKTVG9IsgFAqjrMPZH6fMeeKtlWgAa3i3-U0Q-vbqpvxtC87JCQl1-xzqd3ye_f90qVO3YqoquSGESbgU_sFUY1fhs7YJG-ycJLqgvJBefuPVq3yMU2TQXs/s1600/ham_and_eggs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjzDHOZkWQXwantLk1NmeIXKTVG9IsgFAqjrMPZH6fMeeKtlWgAa3i3-U0Q-vbqpvxtC87JCQl1-xzqd3ye_f90qVO3YqoquSGESbgU_sFUY1fhs7YJG-ycJLqgvJBefuPVq3yMU2TQXs/s640/ham_and_eggs.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ham and Eggs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I hope this has been helpful to see what equipment allows me
to work and climb personal objectives in Alaska.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Now it’s time to pack for the next two months
of guiding in the Alps, immediately followed by a personal climbing expedition
on the India Pakistan border supported by the Mugs Stump Grant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>See you in October North America!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
-Alan Rousseau<br />
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:DocumentProperties>
<o:Revision>0</o:Revision>
<o:TotalTime>0</o:TotalTime>
<o:Pages>1</o:Pages>
<o:Words>992</o:Words>
<o:Characters>5659</o:Characters>
<o:Company>Liberty Mountain</o:Company>
<o:Lines>47</o:Lines>
<o:Paragraphs>13</o:Paragraphs>
<o:CharactersWithSpaces>6638</o:CharactersWithSpaces>
<o:Version>14.0</o:Version>
</o:DocumentProperties>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin-top:0in;
mso-para-margin-right:0in;
mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt;
mso-para-margin-left:0in;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<!--EndFragment--><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
_________<br />
<br />
Like what you read? Share it with a friend.Liberty Mountainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03093638744889511588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-914471312709317608.post-23873326753787760352017-06-14T09:22:00.000-06:002017-06-14T09:30:57.525-06:00Jackson Marvell Athlete Bio<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5rW_aVH6J3z2j8XU3P6V8HBxIWyRrZRkWd-QaLxoGmTNfRzaWeuI0qr105X7s1ZPm8A8lYAgFeorVWFBdB1KD49czqP-W_ZhHJp5OB6q7rFKcNSvx711rRBIv2hZYjKmmY3NDAaZJii8/s1600/Jackson_Marvell.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1068" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5rW_aVH6J3z2j8XU3P6V8HBxIWyRrZRkWd-QaLxoGmTNfRzaWeuI0qr105X7s1ZPm8A8lYAgFeorVWFBdB1KD49czqP-W_ZhHJp5OB6q7rFKcNSvx711rRBIv2hZYjKmmY3NDAaZJii8/s640/Jackson_Marvell.jpeg" width="425" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i>Jackson Marvell is the newest member of the Liberty Mountain athlete teams. He has joined as an athlete for Edelweiss, Grivel, and Cypher. We interviewed Jackson to find out a bit more about where his passion for climbing started and what his goals are moving forward.</i></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Tell us about where you grew up - </span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I was born in Orem, Utah and lived in Provo till I was three. That's also where I dug the biggest hole ever in my parents garden. Then we moved to Lindon where I now live when I'm not on a climbing trip or expedition. </span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">What was your first experience climbing?</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">When I was 16 I begged an older girl that I worked with to take me out climbing with her on a Saturday after work. She eventually conceded and took me up to Rock Canyon. That day I was able to lead a couple sport pitches and learn the basics, that night I bought a rope, harness, draws, and set of stoppers. Because it became an addiction, I began recruiting kids to skip school with me to go climbing as often as I could. The trips to Moab then started soon after and my weekend norm became climbing there. Moab is where I really cut my teeth climbing.</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">What is your favorite type of climbing?</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Climbing to me is all about the adventure. That being said, I naturally gravitate towards trad, big wall, alpine and ice. There is nothing quite like topping out a wild desert tower though, so if I had to choose one as my favorite I guess I would have to go with that.</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Any style of climbing that you particularly dislike?</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Sport climbing and bouldering are both fairly boring.</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-H8qtjlLvHd0CPtJCgs62WTPpAnItA6UUrUv9v1ieh7M2VemtNL9wjYGn2E8q5Ib5TMlYXoV2_6v0MvQTmN0z4FYiwVAB2dZrkiK2gnx3yIms2mpIR-LuM3cXscF18iHtP1sEIgIyXF8/s1600/Screen+Shot+2017-06-13+at+10.15.09+AM.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="597" data-original-width="596" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-H8qtjlLvHd0CPtJCgs62WTPpAnItA6UUrUv9v1ieh7M2VemtNL9wjYGn2E8q5Ib5TMlYXoV2_6v0MvQTmN0z4FYiwVAB2dZrkiK2gnx3yIms2mpIR-LuM3cXscF18iHtP1sEIgIyXF8/s640/Screen+Shot+2017-06-13+at+10.15.09+AM.png" width="638" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jackson on Gold Bar Tower</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Where are your favorite areas to climb?</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I've spent a lot of time over the years exploring the Colorado Plateau, when I'm home that is my go to climbing destination. The past two years I've spent time in Alaska and have really enjoyed the experiences I have had there. It's really cool to disconnect from the rest of the world for a month.</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Tell us about your all-time favorite climb –</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Hmm. My all time favorite climb… that's a hard one. One of the most standout days in my memory would have to be when my friend and climbing partner, Pat Kingsbury and I got the first free ascent of the east face of Texas Tower Onsight. That was a pretty rad day of climbing.</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Why do you climb?</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">You know that's a good question. I think about that when I’m especially tired at work, or when I’m broke as a joke trying to scrounge up money for another trip. The only answer I’ve been able to come up with is because life should have moments of adventure. Who doesn't dream about wandering the desert, or standing on top of a snowy summit in a far away place. I certainly did when I was a kid and now that dream has become somewhat of a reality. </span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0MRKmx8KKi2KlVama1ZQh3XdKaI_qFWULIiFapDJf7suOcdvUp4ftK0L6MbLzk6-ZgXqmw0HVpd_FkVMJOjNfbd0vGCkA75DNQNrxapdPekmwvdgyLe3sPOvVZJ9PRPeWXc6MVb893Gw/s1600/Screen+Shot+2017-06-13+at+10.27.57+AM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="602" data-original-width="480" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0MRKmx8KKi2KlVama1ZQh3XdKaI_qFWULIiFapDJf7suOcdvUp4ftK0L6MbLzk6-ZgXqmw0HVpd_FkVMJOjNfbd0vGCkA75DNQNrxapdPekmwvdgyLe3sPOvVZJ9PRPeWXc6MVb893Gw/s640/Screen+Shot+2017-06-13+at+10.27.57+AM.png" width="510" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jackson climbing Shotgun Wedding<br />
Photo: Tim Thompson</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Can you talk about your project to climb 100 desert towers? What was your motivation, and what were logistics and planning like?</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">A couple months after I turned 20 I decided I wanted to climb 100 desert towers before I turned 21. There were a couple of reasons I decided I wanted to do this, 1) I would be the youngest person to do it by several years, and 2) I wanted to go to areas of the desert that I would otherwise never have had the chance to explore. Logistics and planning was simple, climb towers at every possible chance. Obstacles on the other hand were another story, one thing that comes to mind when I think of obstacles would be when I totaled my truck on a Friday night one weekend out on a dirt road in Canyonlands. I was pretty stressed that night thinking about what I was going to have to do to get a new rig and get back on the road, but I </span><span style="color: black; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">woke up the next morning and said screw it and drove the totaled truck the rest of the weekend ticking off 5 towers. I then drove home Sunday night, test drove 12 Tacomas on Monday, got a loan on Tuesday and bought a new truck. On Wednesday I was back out enjoying my month long road trip.</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="white-space: normal;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">PS some fun facts for my little project, it took 29,160' vertical feet of climbing, 27,500 miles driven, $3,437 spent on gas, 83 milkshakes from Milts, and 1 totaled Tacoma. What did I get in return? Countless priceless memories with many of my friends.</span></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzqJIkjp_0nKCGilPgKNx-HhALiOhw_lmeT99AoSg6AERY8NFJEit8Sgln9txQPFLNT_cUGiCDPmO6CrniwF5gU90n4Mxdiy4vEvUiXTRgWi2-JMU8AZqlg0ZRtx-ABF75krKXKKNvqmM/s1600/DSC00489.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzqJIkjp_0nKCGilPgKNx-HhALiOhw_lmeT99AoSg6AERY8NFJEit8Sgln9txQPFLNT_cUGiCDPmO6CrniwF5gU90n4Mxdiy4vEvUiXTRgWi2-JMU8AZqlg0ZRtx-ABF75krKXKKNvqmM/s640/DSC00489.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">After being stuck in a storm for a week and a half this spring in Alaska, there was a brief 5 hour window that Jackson and his climbing partner Paul Robertson took full advantage of. They ran for the hill closest to base camp and enjoyed some much needed sun while getting some exercise climbing 6 pitches of fun alpine ridge. That night the weather closed back in for another 4 days. Photo: Paul Robertson</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-style: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">What other hobbies/interests or passions do you have?</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">To be honest I usually don't have time for much besides work, planning </span><span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">climbing trips and going on climbing trips. If I did have more time I'd probably spend it in my grandpa's shop working on becoming a better welder or reading books.</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">What or who inspires you?</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">There are several people who have inspired me over the years, My grandpa and dad have always been a huge inspiration to me. They both work harder than anyone I know and they instilled that work ethic in me when I was young. I am always trying to incorporate that into my climbing. Another huge inspiration to me was Scott Adamson, he embodied everything I thought climbers were supposed to be.</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Favorite post-send meal – </span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Would definitely have to say a nice big guac bacon burger with some fries.</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">What are your long-term climbing goals?</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I have a lot of climbing goals. Some upcoming ones would be to free this line called “Hell Bitch” on a really rad tower deep in the desert. I’m also heading to Kyrgyzstan for two months to do some big wall climbing and exploring this summer so pretty stoked about that.</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Anything else that you think your fans should know?</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">NWS</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Follow Jackson's adventures on Instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/jackson_marvell/" target="_blank">@jacksonmarvell</a></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-06dc2acf-9e3a-61a5-65de-4d054fe64f86"></span></span><br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">_________</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Like what you read? Share it with a friend.</span>Liberty Mountainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03093638744889511588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-914471312709317608.post-63849454570241695042017-06-01T12:36:00.000-06:002017-06-01T13:01:25.176-06:00Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing<div style="line-height: normal;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEittviFyNycaGpDeaYTPvP0RVmZL23xGkbTv8v6D2AO6Fk42yWh_vFTk0QrIycFPM-l6SPh5KBVRuYG2op-Pb7ty2A7DhTo1ae-cfplORbIqN1gTTRoAC1F_QHIR03151KTWPJ4GLS0rlc/s1600/Photo+by+Nathan+Smith+02_.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="787" data-original-width="1183" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEittviFyNycaGpDeaYTPvP0RVmZL23xGkbTv8v6D2AO6Fk42yWh_vFTk0QrIycFPM-l6SPh5KBVRuYG2op-Pb7ty2A7DhTo1ae-cfplORbIqN1gTTRoAC1F_QHIR03151KTWPJ4GLS0rlc/s640/Photo+by+Nathan+Smith+02_.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: Nathan Smith</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">June 1</span><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: normal;">st</span><span style="font-family: inherit;">, 2017, Salt Lake City, Utah – The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">and the local climbing community.</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">A lease signing ceremony will be held to commemorate this historic event, which coincides with </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">National Trails Day. Media are invited to join us.</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtJTA7yRo8QOrkiNTqJPGK2FaT6TK4HB1eLP-pi4m5ND5VHGWcHBoOuj5Xc2EvBRoiEo6ya7QbVJ6dSJedCjKPh9zaxAX30LK7EOAk-GrmkwhrE7oDwMfWWGFywSVK1v0KCBprYlsNHb4/s1600/Photo+by+Andrew+Burr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1080" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtJTA7yRo8QOrkiNTqJPGK2FaT6TK4HB1eLP-pi4m5ND5VHGWcHBoOuj5Xc2EvBRoiEo6ya7QbVJ6dSJedCjKPh9zaxAX30LK7EOAk-GrmkwhrE7oDwMfWWGFywSVK1v0KCBprYlsNHb4/s640/Photo+by+Andrew+Burr.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: Andrew Burr</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>What</b>: Lease signing ceremony for climbing access to the Gate Buttress parcel in Little</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Cottonwood Canyon.</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Who</b>: Scott Trotter, Presiding Bishopric of the LDS Church and Julia Geisler, Executive Director</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">of the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance. The Access Fund Conservation Team, Chip Powell and</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Lindsay Anderson, will be facilitating an environmental stewardship Adopt a Crag event for</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">volunteers on site.</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>When</b>: Saturday, June 3<span style="line-height: normal;">rd</span>, 9 a.m.</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Where</b>: Parking lot of the Gate Buttress, one mile up Little Cottonwood Canyon. (Signage will be</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">present marking the site)</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6EEGAsfFSmkrksCwBjcnzAlcuvgXpO1aiqaF0gYw3ADLYD4HFJQ06WFpfFHJTMj4kz6XzcO_a_9S5McnPkMGHNHp9WDjD3pd7F3q01xUwUTFTBV4QA1gPFOBsWaTmm08Mwa0M70Jt3g0/s1600/LCC_LDS_PressRelease%255B4%255D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1205" data-original-width="1600" height="482" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6EEGAsfFSmkrksCwBjcnzAlcuvgXpO1aiqaF0gYw3ADLYD4HFJQ06WFpfFHJTMj4kz6XzcO_a_9S5McnPkMGHNHp9WDjD3pd7F3q01xUwUTFTBV4QA1gPFOBsWaTmm08Mwa0M70Jt3g0/s640/LCC_LDS_PressRelease%255B4%255D.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The leased area can be seen in the highlighted area here</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">T</span><span style="font-family: inherit;">he first recorded climbing route in LCC was established in 1961 by former Salt Lake City</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Mayor, Ted Wilson and Bob Stout. Over the years, Wilson worked with Rick Reese, Allen</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Sanderson, and other local climbers, in conjunction with the LDS Church to assure </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">recreationalists, predominantly rock climbers, access to the Gate Buttress parcel. However, no</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">formal agreement had ever been established to allow climbing and land improvements. This</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">lease is an evolution of this relationship.</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">“The LDS Church has always been gracious to climbers regarding climbing access,” says</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Wilson. “The Church, Salt Lake Climbers Alliance, and Access Fund now, by the agreement,</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">take this relationship to a whole new level. Because of the agreement, the canyon will have</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">needed environmental improvements to continue to enhance a wonderful recreational site open</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">to individuals and families.”</span><br />
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">“Agreements like this lease benefit climbers and landowners alike,” says Access Fund</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Executive Director Brady Robinson. “By teaming up, Access Fund and SLCA can ensure a</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">lasting partnership with the LDS Church.”</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The SLCA and Access Fund are preparing a stewardship plan that will incorporate climbing</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">area improvements, erosion mitigation, and more. This stewardship work will replicate</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">successful efforts that SLCA is spearheading at the lower Little Cottonwood hiking and climbing</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">access trail network. In addition to hosting climbing, the property is also part of the Salt Lake</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">City watershed system that provides drinking water to more than 400,000 Salt Lake County</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">residents.</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO7YfOR8_RJJtHZ-W9jqTrpwmc8na1V69ktSI8Kvx_J0xNjkCj8XiE2dQ4sWtlwFymz5N13WuA7Aic83c7n2M9d1zcF_xFVfzmjJ6DXbUbnoXfjXedcUTpNOjUM8njP6FHPKleJOrxKmM/s1600/Photo+by+Nathan+Smith+03_.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1181" data-original-width="786" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO7YfOR8_RJJtHZ-W9jqTrpwmc8na1V69ktSI8Kvx_J0xNjkCj8XiE2dQ4sWtlwFymz5N13WuA7Aic83c7n2M9d1zcF_xFVfzmjJ6DXbUbnoXfjXedcUTpNOjUM8njP6FHPKleJOrxKmM/s640/Photo+by+Nathan+Smith+03_.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: Nathan Smith</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">“The Gate Buttress is a world-class climbing resource that is near and dear to many climbers’</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">hearts both here in the Wasatch and across the nation,” says SLCA Executive Director Julia</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Geisler. “The climbing community is deeply committed to the environmental stewardship of the</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">property. This lease not only secures access for climbing at the property, but also allows the</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">community to be better stewards of the places we love to play. The SLCA is actively planning</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">for recreation infrastructure improvements to begin in 2018, including trail and staging area work</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">that will reduce erosion and impacts on the Salt Lake City watershed.”</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Stay tuned to <span style="color: #0433ff;"><a href="http://saltlakeclimbers.org/">SaltLakeClimbers.org</a> </span>for volunteer environmental stewardship opportunities at</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">upcoming Adopt a Crag events. The SLCA will also be responsible for funding recreation</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">infrastructure at the Gate Buttress parcel and will have fundraising events that the public is</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">encouraged to attend, including one on June 8<span style="line-height: normal;">th </span>at Black Diamond Equipment. For tickets, visit</span></div>
<div style="color: #0433ff; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://saltlakeclimbers.org/events.">saltlakeclimbers.org/events<span style="color: black;">.</span></a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKu3ymwpFIvROXZjjAtcfmpluH0zupgFE7Nfm52ISv2CVpw4xeeXv6Sv4_hXEXGVqVecqCNQmyj9SsXxh_SsDobFLa0owf-Iv9Uln830qeBZTyLSguG0N3yjY1s4mFy-GtSmD3ooNhb74/s1600/Photo+by+Nathan+Smith+05_.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1069" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKu3ymwpFIvROXZjjAtcfmpluH0zupgFE7Nfm52ISv2CVpw4xeeXv6Sv4_hXEXGVqVecqCNQmyj9SsXxh_SsDobFLa0owf-Iv9Uln830qeBZTyLSguG0N3yjY1s4mFy-GtSmD3ooNhb74/s640/Photo+by+Nathan+Smith+05_.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: Nathan Smith</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>About Salt Lake Climbers Alliance</b></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA) exists to provide a unified voice for climbers in the</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Wasatch through stewardship, advocacy, community, and education. <span style="color: #353535;">The SLCA is Utah’s</span></span></div>
<div style="color: #353535; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">leading voice for climbing access and stewardship: uniting, educating, and inspiring climbers of</span></div>
<div style="color: #353535; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">all disciplines to serve their local climbing community since 2002.</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">For more information, visit <span style="color: #0433ff;"><a href="http://saltlakeclimbers.org/">saltlakeclimbers.org</a></span>.</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>About the LDS Church</b></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints is a global faith with nearly 16 million members</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">worldwide. The Church’s teachings include a belief that we have a responsibility to work with</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">others to care for God’s creations. For more information, visit our page on <span style="color: #0433ff;"><a href="https://www.lds.org/topics/environmental-stewardship-and-conservation?lang=eng" target="_blank">Environmental</a></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #0433ff; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://www.lds.org/topics/environmental-stewardship-and-conservation?lang=eng" target="_blank">Stewardship and Conservation.</a></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>About Access Fund</b></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Access Fund is the national advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">conserves the climbing environment. Founded in 1991, Access Fund supports and represents</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">millions of climbers nationwide in all forms of climbing: rock climbing, ice climbing,</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">mountaineering, and bouldering. Six core programs support the mission on national and local</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">levels: climbing management policy, stewardship and conservation, local support and</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">mobilization, land acquisition and protection, risk management and landowner support, and</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">education. For more information, visit </span><span style="color: #0433ff; font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://accessfund.org/">accessfund.org</a></span><span style="font-family: inherit;">.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">_________</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Like what you read? Share it with a friend.</span>Liberty Mountainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03093638744889511588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-914471312709317608.post-77992250044214327322017-04-24T09:05:00.000-06:002017-04-24T09:05:41.056-06:00Chulilla Spain Travel Tips<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-weight: 700; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></div>
</div>
<img alt="IMG_1153.JPG" height="468" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/NV_sBJkQkJjray08C7MPrfjtahinRGKxdhwq2cfIihLbnVZbRNra9hpXKEVZ_oPF_K5U5EJXwX-o63N0BqbO_SjomkqsfYdc0i8eQT62MSnJhzLeDxPzYNbHclF1VXxzm74Jigt3" style="border: none; font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: 700; transform: rotate(0rad); white-space: pre-wrap;" width="624" /><br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="vertical-align: baseline;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit; white-space: pre-wrap;">Beal </span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">Athlete Anne Struble recently returned from a climbing trip to Chulilla, Spain, a small town near the eastern coast of the country. Here are her tips and suggestions for planning your own trip to Chulilla and getting the most out of your time there.</span></span></i></span></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline;"> </span></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Getting There</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Probably the easiest and most direct way to get to Chulilla is to fly to Valencia. It is about 40 min from Chulilla to the Valencia airport. It is also possible to fly into either Madrid or Barcelona and drive from those cities, both of which are under 4 hours away. </span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: 700; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: 700; white-space: pre-wrap;">Arriving</span><br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">If you are staying in the village of Chulilla itself, one important thing to note is that while cars are “allowed” on the side streets, most of them are extremely narrow, steep and winding and you may end up in a dead end forcing you to go uphill in reverse in the dark. To get to most locations in town, visitors leave their cars in the large public lot on the North end of town.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-f6a1d6ab-8c6f-06a1-fa99-58384428cde6"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline;"><img height="468" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/ax6KdFPfcZuZphk9PsslVwdsmmahnHZCWCi9hvu8qKC1iiVjf5jHTGlN9s4g8IDtrnKialPeZStlwu9GsOqAnXmNozzqGa50krjzN02W5SKkoRPCgTWahLTxhxbXkRvbPJ5lStBt" style="-webkit-transform: rotate(0.00rad); border: none; transform: rotate(0.00rad);" width="624" /></span></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">It is also possible to leave your car for short periods of time in the main plaza for loading/unloading/ purposes.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-f6a1d6ab-8c6f-4178-edf1-f9e4ee502ae7"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline;"><img height="832" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/tzwsBXcnI0gy-T5BjmHOzQf2QOWcI3UMBzDtiQo2uLDgk4V44fMTRT_DGMp56tbQ0QZxg1E5bBqxGCmISk_UeXksKm4q37JcDZ_Q4AwTVsMbKzvD7cV71G5CbP1g8Yzx3yF-dN0P" style="-webkit-transform: rotate(0.00rad); border: none; transform: rotate(0.00rad);" width="624" /></span></span></span><br />
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-f6a1d6ab-8c6f-e9a6-614d-aaece99e5c1b"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline;"><img height="468" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pak1vw8xS2jXQ2nwXSAP4jXWAfw8tPKqsQXtNRTVjhSwHAG_RSyB9ZJugUJFZxnYwT6YfBfuJbp-urw6BCIqDX040RgMSwRyjYyOhO8lnEJJjXSH4p37WgrEB6ecPhEeOs89dejx" style="-webkit-transform: rotate(0.00rad); border: none; transform: rotate(0.00rad);" width="624" /></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: 700; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: 700; white-space: pre-wrap;">Rental Cars</span><br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">I usually just use </span><a href="http://kayak.com/" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: #1155cc; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kayak</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> to find my rental cars and go with whatever is cheapest. Gold Car is usually a good cheap option. They have a super coverage that will theoretically make your life easy if you have any sort of damage to the car or need any roadside assistance. However, you will have to pay quite a bit more for it. Additionally, if you don’t get the super coverage, when you arrive to pick up your car they might give you a really hard upsale. </span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Lodging</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Airbnb is probably your best bet for finding lodging. Chulilla is pretty touristy and there are many options. There are a couple of B&Bs that you might also be able to get dinner at and there are a large number of apartments with full kitchens (and often a washing machine as well). Chulilla is very cute, scenic and convenient but it also works to stay in La Ermita (very close only around 1-2km), Losa del Obispo (only a 5-10 min drive to the climbing parking), or Villar del Arzobispo (a bit further, but it is bigger with a full grocery store and some restaurants). </span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Shopping</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The little stores in Chulilla actually have an impressively wide selection given their size, so it’s not actually necessary to go to a bigger grocery store, but depending upon how much cooking you plan to do you still might want to visit one. Paniza which is right on Chulilla’s center square has daily fresh bread, empanadas and other treats. The woman who works there is very friendly and you can also get a wide variety of other items. If you venture a bit further from the town center there is another bakery and other stores which offer meats and cheeses. There is also a weekly market on Sundays which has a larger range of fresh produce and some snack items.</span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Restaurants</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<a href="https://www.goscanos.com/" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: #1155cc; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Goscanos</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - the climber’s hangout and offers breakfast and dinner, but is often closed in the middle of the day. They are very friendly and offer reasonable prices and good food. </span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Restaurante Hoces Del Turia - A nice little restaurant right on the main drag through town. You can also just get a drink or coffee. </span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">There are also other restaurants around town, but I didn’t sample any of them. The best restaurants that I experienced were in Valencia on rest days (see the rest days section). </span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<h4>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Climbing</span></h4>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-f6a1d6ab-8c70-339b-f82d-704fe264353c" style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline;"><img height="832" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/6mLrtupbKHJDUyBfISrI0BSq54KAvxN0zJ_UdkABIuH0i7eRkSTEAM632i2VOGi-38-0pOxJ5XLUMhs5f_f68sn3P1pPjmKmfiSBg_N1RaqzAfbqUxNblazNNoZ0R2_JNuZEPqZ2" style="-webkit-transform: rotate(0.00rad); border: none; transform: rotate(0.00rad);" width="624" /></span></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-f6a1d6ab-8c70-5fd0-db6c-4ef4bc2b78ed" style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline;"><img height="468" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/KXnVcN81Zodmhyah0TT9ds0mVJw9Qw-AfXx0tJuNU0_Cy6kDy8Li7O-r5K3nYYEyG2cBqCFrf86IKh5QvrorBr-QUsdBMFecMBEzz-_Egw3blxXo-7iCCCEYGuE48eekrKT418W7" style="-webkit-transform: rotate(0.00rad); border: none; transform: rotate(0.00rad);" width="624" /></span></span></span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The guidebook can be picked up at the Bar El Canton, or the tobacco shop just next door to it, both are located right on the center square. It’s also likely that Goscano’s sells them. For gear, you could probably get away with a 70m rope, but I’d recommend bringing a longer one. There are a few routes that an 80m is necessary for, but in general it will just make your life easier. For draws, I’d recommend bringing 25, or 40 if you want to leave draws on anything for more than a day. Most routes are between 12 and 16 bolts (plus anchors), but there are the occasional longer (and less run out) ones that might need 20 or 22. </span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The best areas to climb at will really be dependent on the temps and what grades you are looking for.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">For shady climbing I’d hit these areas first:</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">5.11s: Oasis, Chorreras and Master</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">5.12s: Chorreras, Oasis, Algarrobo (but stay away from the one star 7b+s at Algarabbo)</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">5.13s: Balconcito, Algarrobo, Pared Blanca, El Balcon, Chorreras</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">For sunny climbing:</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pared De Enfrente</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">For the 5.13s check out the El Ramellar sector for sure. It also goes into the shade in the afternoon and is good enough that it is worth checking out even if it’s a bit warmer.</span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">There is also a climbing gear shop in Chulilla, where there was a decent selection of gear and chalk available.</span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Rest Days</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-f6a1d6ab-8c70-98cf-0070-52368fbe9f6f" style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline;"><img height="832" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/VBmxh0utE3HWFHSy0BZQMlh5ybl8aS8ON1Q3mA3QCvyIRbx4ZChbH1YN7W5-gwpDSKSU6ffdve73E5iOdwU0vnRPonKI4CtJIfHNMG3lr0Kk04yd44jq6Ao4k8SeONmRjVToW1hg" style="-webkit-transform: rotate(0.00rad); border: none; transform: rotate(0.00rad);" width="624" /></span></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">For rest days, visiting Valencia and eating Paella was our favorite activity. If you just want Paella, I’d recommend </span><a href="http://www.restauranteyuso.es/" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: #1155cc; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Yuso</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">. It’s right in the old town area which is great to explore after a huge satisfying meal. Our favorite restaurant, which also had fantastic paella, but other dishes as well, was </span><a href="http://restaurantenavarro.com/" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: #1155cc; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Navarro</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, wonderful food and service. It’s an especially good place to go if you don’t speak much Spanish as they will explain their menu in English and make recommendations. They really want you to enjoy your visit. </span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-f6a1d6ab-8c70-cd26-fa59-22c6e3e64cee"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline;"><img height="468" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_yM3rb_WtvCRIXSDWB8QE00V3qBJ2WtQaYitYyPjytNHv8h62nVp0NBfoM1MLaBWEFYthhy9D1IT0g9VeEgi17JPeq9TKjApNIyX-UPL1wlPOxz8YQrKZUZHni2sTGrjCQLRSjZW" style="-webkit-transform: rotate(0.00rad); border: none; transform: rotate(0.00rad);" width="624" /></span></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We just enjoyed wandering around the old town and seeing the sites, but the Valencia Cathedral is definitely worth a visit. In addition to seeing the interior of the cathedral and walking through the small museum inside, I’d recommend climbing to the top of tower, which on a clear day will give you a great view of the area. </span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The beach on the northside of Valencia is also quite scenic with a long boardwalk with restaurants, cafes and ice cream. </span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">There are also many great trails around Chulilla for hiking or trail running.</span></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
_________<br />
<br />
Like what you read? Share it with a friend.Liberty Mountainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03093638744889511588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-914471312709317608.post-66487013709454461692017-02-21T10:42:00.001-07:002017-02-22T14:52:19.209-07:00High on Hyalite: Ice Climbing with the Sierra Club Military Outdoors<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="427" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3VAaXKzk3r3nm0PaCHl-AnkeQntgBwu6JwutMria9T4JR04kd9XxyoRItOpENVnCGBzCk_N_H4mnR1BfN8sVOQfvON9FqU-HD576ftyT1nYGRaJJPPANEzDS1d0nifcErx2_IkADFBgE/s640/NK2_8694.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: transparent;">2016 Sierra Club Military Outdoors Ice climbing group. Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span><b style="font-family: 'trebuchet ms', sans-serif;"> </b><b style="font-family: 'trebuchet ms', sans-serif;"> </b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I was surrounded by silence. A thousand feet above the canyon floor the environment was so frozen in white that time seemed transfixed. Snow slept heavily on the mountains. Pale clouds hung low, stretched out across the peaks like slowly pulled wool. Together the snow and the clouds seemed to absorb any sound. I felt as if I’d forgotten how to hear, what day it was, or anything other than the wall of snow and ice that I had dug my crampons into. I was high up in <i>Hyalite</i>.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmddaCjXUZWf69EF5jNGBy5KK0ZA3Zf8zP8cgI3XJlB8bbN29Ye3D4W9Mpeex964CCUtobyZLauyDw9Ukk2VjAuUCeBqAAiTkCYbieTJwLa046Ff5w9bh7HaWp-HBUCoQse5Q0TAUjrPc/s640/2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Lindsey Robinson on the Mummy II WI3. Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwIu2HsEK3UM5gL7G8_Q6GM1-so6lmCZhf3I3yXFoT8dbkjoMUCSrIiNZqDspTuYn_-J1GsKNdUaL59QHwh_8pnztq6tA2UMI62amW0jhhZ9o2hYANszphg4RvbTmyfbbYlcaFT5VEIB4/s640/3.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Gregory Schillinger on Champaign Sherbert WI4. Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The silence was broken by the faint clinking of ice tools as Devin worked his way up the cliff and joined me at the anchor. “My forearms are burning,” he remarked and I smiled in agreement. We still had a few more pitches before finishing the route. Devin and I were climbing <i>Land of the Lost</i>, WI4, which is a beautiful long and winding ice route in <i>Hyalite Canyon</i>. Each pitch gave us a different perspective of the canyon and frozen waterfalls first climbed decades ago by men like Alex Lowe and Conrad Anker. Sometimes we could see <i>Winter Dance</i>, an intimidating icicle hanging like fangs above our own route; sometimes we caught glimpses of <i>Twin Falls</i> and the towering <i>Cleopatra’s Needle</i> across and up canyon from us; we could also look down at <i>Unnamed Wall </i>and the <i>Fat One</i> where we’d climbed both rock and ice a few days earlier. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<i><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i>Hyalite</i> has arguably the highest accessible concentration of natural water ice formations in the US. It looks like a frozen rainforest. The rock walls behind the snow and ice are mostly basaltic andesite, formed by an ancient lava flow. Mounds of conglomerate rock are found in higher layers, deposited by a mud flow from volcanic activity in <i>Yellowstone</i> millions of years ago. More than one glacier has carved <i>Hyalite</i> into a wide U shape and dragged rock debris far down the canyon.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="427" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiByPE9NIj_Xz3LT6pcTnbrtakE9YKBj8DVDyBF45Zgv-amIBXbCfJ0tzrPrt7PasySNi8IcTkd0Cm-AASk1sIJ6CrTJzDKCll7NGGAb3cmGLNth13Jdmt2O0GAgovsl8p8Mo4fHHBOb6g/s640/4.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Gregory Schillinger and Isaac Teaford on Champaign Sherbert WI4. Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Devin and I were part of a <i><a href="http://content.sierraclub.org/outings/military" target="_blank">Sierra Club Military Outdoors</a></i> annual trip to ice climb in <i>Hyalite Canyon</i> with the <i><a href="http://www.mtalpine.com/" target="_blank">Montana Alpine Guides</a></i>. Everyone in our group had some background in climbing or mountaineering, but the chief common element among us was that we had each served in the military. Several men came from <i>Army</i> and <i>Navy</i> backgrounds; Devin had served in the <i>Marines</i> and I was in the <i>Air Force</i>. Most of us had not been with a group of veterans since leaving the military.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjky2Y3EaElwnRldENecqb8VMaU1HaepKEf9eHMnKrvWm57sPMS7ik8YKMaYcFDdReq2CZ_5sqzrgz504SrKpd7mCvpiblSEUZSuCQ7oqws_Vw_75n_vCs4ALZ-nRJNBwHP1Y_RNsf93M4/s640/5.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="426" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Gregory Schillinger climbing at the Unnamed Wall. Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHvzkv2saSctWUcRhGaga17TZjW-mKmhqii9EcuGJogjdblPEcowJdipmafp0wlZfKIe_Wpyh3sKi0JeJVdU9aiAJz3TfClbnHeLHqtcUjdZ8bphkH-QPqVUc_Wg6kXh1ysDjNv59hufc/s640/6.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Kyle Burton climbing Genesis I WI3+. Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBreKSkQoKPVkMEH0GvjkNt6vZbkXd3of6xeG1XBx9Yo4uu6q5JSjTsoB3M5GH9zzIuFg12l8cH0mvOCCWaSNNK-O0P6Aa3ChoLKoQaqzbIKBIRqMhoXLV-slX59a9_BAeFbcsVIc4L4k/s640/7.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">The group at the Unnamed Wall. Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">For five nights, we all camped in <i>Hyalite</i> sharing hot meals and coffee and resisting the cold fingers of winter. Around the campfire we laughed with familiarity at each other’s stories of military life.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="427" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX97S_pAhOdPk3-YIbXTN45zbHR6m55D092TY71rPVfCgmuDN-LFJ01VFl23errKXNv9cs8MI2K6nWAt34SJejZk3wsOPRqYCl_xy919g1HqRgy1VrjVWphOyueJ-zNDI32ghMS_DMdGM/s640/8.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Window Rock Cabin, Hyalite Canyon, Custer Gallatin National Forest, Montana. Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdZxuSiu3CP_RFb9q4QJk1_NJkclvGzrc2VQz8wIEvXX3XFzqf6q-eBiBvMkbhw1kbtOUFr4qI9iaTwaV6Ttb4UEX7dmudOfDsalaXuJDdqA4sCMreoEbytSqOBFbBr4objOVAQFE3FyE/s640/9.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">BBQ. Window Rock Cabin, Hyalite Canyon, Custer Gallatin National Forest, Montana. Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8ba5f1e8Roo4hF18L5-01bz4PggAm-M5G8SlPPW1HE9ahZGUZ6q-dMzqFbMHLkpO0ycAPu42u6elSZoTSj17KhlUpXCliPN4VKXqOOaqREKOUw3PoZI8JU_Ll6LeMOior_TFWocbFQN8/s640/10.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">BBQ. Window Rock Cabin, Hyalite Canyon, Custer Gallatin National Forest, Montana. Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-WKQB1s1oekQUQPjB69NHm-VUNq6-MpjZy9Jv0YtxrxE1sUlR8ybfisbCIC1qvJnEwb4bFzoJtsGER_20aBOZxj2TWlSvkO5YWQWJlsK1YsSqedoq0ZN-Rwo1xOHHmbFzR7VL0gBYLqE/s640/11.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">BBQ. Window Rock Cabin, Hyalite Canyon, Custer Gallatin National Forest, Montana. Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPtvcmNzSI20e1meXzFRnL6vanfzIyja7-qaVFgF2MJ9f8LxOkdH5e_IeMcgMOB0_sJcHbzVucYyd4yJkt7IQRa_rtF9NPB1twXRxVggKdeDOoZ4G_KEw3-yAaEnbYMub8z_kj64VmMOc/s640/12.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">After Action Review. Window Rock Cabin, Hyalite Canyon, Custer Gallatin National Forest, Montana. Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">During the day, we pushed each other to climb better, longer, and harder. I could tell there was instant trust and camaraderie in ice climbing with people who have been through deployments and who know the ups and downs of serving in the armed forces.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7V04ZoeUVnXxj1lzpUj1hX3YG0VKKBuKvNy1Qf17gQSELmEeANAXlfy0igjC4QK2r9vUerV-95idxLbJ7kG_lBCjJ_3DXEcHt8il1zrvEVfz92eYZfbcg4tX9au2UBxj8Ot2tW1VYdTU/s640/13.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: transparent;">Approaching the climbs. </span><span style="background-color: transparent;">Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkf5A7hL17eoAT5-AVw9cNcoyI5gckWK4oY79VQh_Rw6rSDuylTQNbWA4XE-HsWAmNSQo3W_4etDluXdZW9iPOrAhgvBjJ17z_1jOcUowSBG-vz0-wYE_8mo67CxNww-p13Wm6HQgD35A/s640/14.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: transparent;">Climbing The Fat One WI3. </span><span style="background-color: transparent;">Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6ac9eHapqoXeeuO_EC91ngpOxspzEjVN_gp4nYEwYahaDQc5gEwQSfKdT4J6e7-ZBx4OtKjGt-SbtfS9XXcv5wnB-1mJWTDAP9Ff6u5nyQL8K7pNKZ5uiViWT7qfzY4__yReu1zoOmS8/s640/15.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: transparent;">Heading back to the cabin for the night. </span><span style="background-color: transparent;">Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The day Devin and I climbed <i>Land of the Lost</i>, our guide Adam remarked on the fortitude of the military teams he’d guided in the mountains. I can see how dealing with tough and miserable military deployments can help veterans adapt quickly to demanding situations in the wild. However, in war there is a human enemy. On the mountain, there are challenges and hazards to overcome, there is a very real risk of death or injury, but there is no true enemy. I gathered that Adam had likely lost as many friends on treacherous expeditions in the <i>Himalayas</i> as I had lost in <i>Operation Enduring Freedom</i>. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv1hYojPMfEORi2ELAGlsJw11kNLgeExAZ_vGUwaF8MEt01X9VsWrIhU5RnvpafU1suYDC3om8y_KC0cr-Dv_3TdCbXnr48kuNEOxAziqJ3XI9EJc3RsNX759nbSDsNTi0T1ZEBd1aoHw/s1600/16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="427" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv1hYojPMfEORi2ELAGlsJw11kNLgeExAZ_vGUwaF8MEt01X9VsWrIhU5RnvpafU1suYDC3om8y_KC0cr-Dv_3TdCbXnr48kuNEOxAziqJ3XI9EJc3RsNX759nbSDsNTi0T1ZEBd1aoHw/s640/16.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: transparent;">Adam Knoff teaching lead technique on the Mummy II WI3. </span><span style="background-color: transparent;">Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg6rQVjTl7Ych9s1BgdjDsLgU9eoB3W220G6eDoslxu54IrWh33LXZmOmFrHbC65hT4y8R6odaLVj-ySRrhxb5MbFnhZFkFE25r6RE7NdbzPqrv_6kFAXvpz5LfCh9iwvYf2aQcf3910k/s1600/Adam.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg6rQVjTl7Ych9s1BgdjDsLgU9eoB3W220G6eDoslxu54IrWh33LXZmOmFrHbC65hT4y8R6odaLVj-ySRrhxb5MbFnhZFkFE25r6RE7NdbzPqrv_6kFAXvpz5LfCh9iwvYf2aQcf3910k/s640/Adam.jpg" width="426" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: transparent;">Adam Knoff of Montana Alpine Guides </span><span style="background-color: transparent;">Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Harsh and painful experiences can make us feel isolated, but being together with women and men who have gone through the same difficult times can help restore a broken spirit. Spending time in the mountains, in wild places, is just as important for guides like Adam as it is for veterans.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1QQ-ycBGsmRsoYYLzxgv-wrMoIAbo92m1TlWSptib4vVoe7sjhPfsReJ5k7VAa6lIGbIk2ZWKWu02RGWSxVgIVUqmyngFI74XOcTtB3yQZDU_EFsAMINZxlGT_-pOC2b08EgeFYXTYCM/s640/17.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="426" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Issac Teaford on Champaign Sherbert WI4. Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPuYFion6CScBGSCaABb6k4Hey4ZHNOOd5fjhv9W5So9vJsceRbD6euSHYtv2M7yjtH-yxAbDhPEZkebRqB4bGDDZ4KNWKuLYps2wM_KEIiVSg_-Z7dV5w6YD9r-ry19iLcgYYN5G5If8/s1600/18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPuYFion6CScBGSCaABb6k4Hey4ZHNOOd5fjhv9W5So9vJsceRbD6euSHYtv2M7yjtH-yxAbDhPEZkebRqB4bGDDZ4KNWKuLYps2wM_KEIiVSg_-Z7dV5w6YD9r-ry19iLcgYYN5G5If8/s640/18.jpg" width="426" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="text-align: start;">Isaac Teaford – U.S. Navy</span><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><span style="background-color: transparent;">Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Being on a wall of brittle ice forces you to exist only in the present. The mind is focused on the spikes of the crampons and the tips of the ice tools, the pressure of the body on the ice--nothing else. The stress and confusion of careers, relationships, money, past mistakes, and future plans—everything is cleared away so that the mind and body can feel the ice and maintain vertical progression up the waterfall.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Adam said on our descent, “Sometimes you have to stop pursuing happiness, and just be ha</span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">ppy.” In the quiet pauses between our crunching footsteps in the snow, I said to myself, “I am.” </span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">- </span></span><span style="background-color: transparent;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Lindsey Robinson – U.S. Air Force</span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8yMWOPA6j12NDNfu6i9iRrgnFgQYDhyhmp_yOqR4YeWtWHXW2raKMgJhumZTQRyWJIttQQkF2-UjzjnEzrOeXB990arnSdvyj7H6KbpTZiqXa0EK6zvjv31LKFBFxqRDU7_yabPm5SDg/s1600/19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8yMWOPA6j12NDNfu6i9iRrgnFgQYDhyhmp_yOqR4YeWtWHXW2raKMgJhumZTQRyWJIttQQkF2-UjzjnEzrOeXB990arnSdvyj7H6KbpTZiqXa0EK6zvjv31LKFBFxqRDU7_yabPm5SDg/s640/19.jpg" width="426" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Lindsey Robinson – U.S. Air Force</span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> </span></span><span style="background-color: transparent;">Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvbNeTuxi-9UR5YbfMMNx95gCRhhLeMohyphenhyphen9km4fbvb93SStMsjLZiPpGZj5_TmCKvn_aF60FHcNM78wFn50o22hwzqT85AMhOrPfndnH2v_C4fGOUhjvl45ez_GSYojiL27mDKbXgC5kU/s1600/20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvbNeTuxi-9UR5YbfMMNx95gCRhhLeMohyphenhyphen9km4fbvb93SStMsjLZiPpGZj5_TmCKvn_aF60FHcNM78wFn50o22hwzqT85AMhOrPfndnH2v_C4fGOUhjvl45ez_GSYojiL27mDKbXgC5kU/s640/20.jpg" width="426" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Robert Vessels – U.S. Army, Sierra Club Military Outdoors Program</span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> </span></span><span style="background-color: transparent;">Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDUQoUP7ABz98nIuMa7gOCq0RCmigcvsHNxmlpQQhsUIU4tR5x-emKURsz7WvXSQgm-xBJYFMVgjnIivxmlG-hwnbt3aUi6Ws07JVESWbumnVBH8WA_cXhKYGuX6lRpD_06_S-Mmogj8U/s1600/21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDUQoUP7ABz98nIuMa7gOCq0RCmigcvsHNxmlpQQhsUIU4tR5x-emKURsz7WvXSQgm-xBJYFMVgjnIivxmlG-hwnbt3aUi6Ws07JVESWbumnVBH8WA_cXhKYGuX6lRpD_06_S-Mmogj8U/s640/21.jpg" width="426" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Gregory Schillinger – U.S. Marine Corps</span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> </span></span><span style="background-color: transparent;">Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: transparent;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7Gld27RlFw6oqKkhjAQNy5wOb2hIh50PP-HwbeOZamqfBVa3YYEE4OLOM8d_FMjZC8WHUDwXeman2BeqIusnSNtMN2MAZsy30OvNnNpiz3SYT5POtLmIGjqJvbT8104UjunAISVAXWeE/s1600/22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7Gld27RlFw6oqKkhjAQNy5wOb2hIh50PP-HwbeOZamqfBVa3YYEE4OLOM8d_FMjZC8WHUDwXeman2BeqIusnSNtMN2MAZsy30OvNnNpiz3SYT5POtLmIGjqJvbT8104UjunAISVAXWeE/s640/22.jpg" width="426" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Kyle Burton – U.S. Army</span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> </span></span><span style="background-color: transparent;">Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: transparent;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWmYRlTv4bSwgV0HpeebtftYezsdIgZyhKY-o2LquUguVV7o9Ijk-69hzi13Qeht9kHA91wGNlQHc56iy1AAxq2aPs58gSr1OI6qP7wKUmoHtBEQyOroe9WIRV_kBBa3jvhSv0t_WqS_w/s1600/23.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWmYRlTv4bSwgV0HpeebtftYezsdIgZyhKY-o2LquUguVV7o9Ijk-69hzi13Qeht9kHA91wGNlQHc56iy1AAxq2aPs58gSr1OI6qP7wKUmoHtBEQyOroe9WIRV_kBBa3jvhSv0t_WqS_w/s640/23.jpg" width="426" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Devin Duval - U.S. Marine Corps</span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> </span></span><span style="background-color: transparent;">Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYyPFE90FW0dCu0fpJZabis4802BNleoT7rRWmIlImJSUR_pYZc1e-l19jWsRd_z2rZVCmzlFf0jXF68wFDIRbhgqNyQXLKvn5M3JdZqAwDlSupPGspN9WJqEte0ppIDb-cPbfWqmqWEE/s1600/24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYyPFE90FW0dCu0fpJZabis4802BNleoT7rRWmIlImJSUR_pYZc1e-l19jWsRd_z2rZVCmzlFf0jXF68wFDIRbhgqNyQXLKvn5M3JdZqAwDlSupPGspN9WJqEte0ppIDb-cPbfWqmqWEE/s640/24.jpg" width="426" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Steve Seager – U.S. Army</span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> </span></span><span style="background-color: transparent;">Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<span style="background-color: transparent;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrxM53Cm-WGgGt2dVPxq2QVeeUWJC6s62wkp_8RAI0LwuTeiIboCXwGv68LkJzwCs5G_hEmJzjG6UaldZe_9aohTX_jA-IRDPH3NAhCBX2r5zamWoUVfx28VX3zhSBbY2DIerOelNiNoc/s1600/25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrxM53Cm-WGgGt2dVPxq2QVeeUWJC6s62wkp_8RAI0LwuTeiIboCXwGv68LkJzwCs5G_hEmJzjG6UaldZe_9aohTX_jA-IRDPH3NAhCBX2r5zamWoUVfx28VX3zhSBbY2DIerOelNiNoc/s640/25.jpg" width="426" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Dan Shoemaker – U.S. Army, Sierra Club Military Outdoors Program</span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> </span></span><span style="background-color: transparent;">Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: transparent;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAUMYszxt6xeUjmSAyLJlHlFphXjkrSEyrkgoy1W47PpRP7PlbERddcT9cxHXTjcrCb1z2osA2DpzSk90yLJkhjbr5wdlfOLqF84HVRPhr5fiVSBuva2KZLC5dIdfTf7G8H5wC1PUprVg/s1600/26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAUMYszxt6xeUjmSAyLJlHlFphXjkrSEyrkgoy1W47PpRP7PlbERddcT9cxHXTjcrCb1z2osA2DpzSk90yLJkhjbr5wdlfOLqF84HVRPhr5fiVSBuva2KZLC5dIdfTf7G8H5wC1PUprVg/s640/26.jpg" width="426" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Sam Magro – Montana Alpine Guides</span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> </span></span><span style="background-color: transparent;">Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: transparent;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhodsoiUaaGdM905oWxvXk7rexj77fhjcSoreolg5lEGVHJnc7rMiq2sFd2ZJvRG6YAiOf5jPaGmfgiZoPso7RYbt8tVxujZ9L86O7WTPdKr4DFM2EF1zrfEoaKNu5Q0AoCmmAFsnNoezg/s1600/beehive_-513.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhodsoiUaaGdM905oWxvXk7rexj77fhjcSoreolg5lEGVHJnc7rMiq2sFd2ZJvRG6YAiOf5jPaGmfgiZoPso7RYbt8tVxujZ9L86O7WTPdKr4DFM2EF1zrfEoaKNu5Q0AoCmmAFsnNoezg/s640/beehive_-513.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="text-indent: -24px;">Nathan Smith – U.S. Army, Liberty Mountain employee </span><span style="background-color: transparent; text-align: start;">Photo ©Jake Hirschi</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The goal of <a href="http://content.sierraclub.org/outings/military" target="_blank">Sierra Club Military Outdoors</a> is to ensure that service members, veterans, and their families have the skills, exposure, knowledge, and confidence to access the great outdoors. Time spent in nature not only promotes mental health, emotional resiliency, and leadership development prior to deployment, it provides invaluable know-how to help returning vets enjoy and engage with nature upon returning from deployments. Many veterans experience difficulty adjusting to civilian life after leaving the service. Time spent outdoors eases the transition and improves both mental health and social skills. Providing service members, veterans, and their families with quality outdoor experiences will help foster the development of a new generation of Sierra Club leaders and supporters from within the military and veteran community, including family members who will work to actively achieve the Sierra Club's mission and become outdoor leaders in their communities.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><b style="background-color: transparent;">In March of 2016, Liberty Mountain was proud to support the Sierra Club Military Outdoors Program on it’s ice climbing trip to Hyalite Canyon above Bozeman, Montana. We believe in the power of the outdoors and it’s restorative nature. To find out more about the Sierra Club Military Outdoors, go to: <a href="http://content.sierraclub.org/outings/military" style="color: #954f72;">sierraclub.org/outings/military</a></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">"I was not sure what to expect going out on this ice climbing trip being a more mature veteran, retired in 2000, but it was just plain awesome! The bond among the veterans the Montana scenery and the professionalism of the guides made this an experience that I will never forget. If I had trepidations at the start of the trip they soon were erased with feelings of excitement and challenge. I was proud to be chosen for this experience, proud to be a part of this group and by the last day wished it could last a little longer." </span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">-Steve Seager – U.S. Army<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJBBDOuj628qsSYDIAtASWmaD2u1eRWsEUUCvO23755ebZR_mnz53oiuOaD9K0ke0-tmxJXPyPfW1lYLJ43ty8p9LPj7vVmQjX8heoN15BeT1uWnJPnR7J7RXcvamxkCDObt_mb9CPh9c/s1600/27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJBBDOuj628qsSYDIAtASWmaD2u1eRWsEUUCvO23755ebZR_mnz53oiuOaD9K0ke0-tmxJXPyPfW1lYLJ43ty8p9LPj7vVmQjX8heoN15BeT1uWnJPnR7J7RXcvamxkCDObt_mb9CPh9c/s640/27.jpg" width="427" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="text-indent: -24px;">Steve Seager on The Fat One WI3. Unnamed Wall, Hyalite Canyon, Montana. </span><span style="background-color: transparent;">Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">“The Hyalite Canyon trip was my first exposure to ice and mixed climbing, but certainly reinforced my love for the outdoors and passion for climbing in general. Being with fellow veterans and fantastic guides made for an awesome experience. Climbing in Hyalite had the affect I always seek in the outdoors; where all the noise and worry of life is cancelled out by being in the moment and surrounded by a beautiful landscape.” </span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">-Devin Duval – U.S. Marine Corps<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPV_-s6MDbdoAy2uHl4Q8LalGGeAs2nWFbea6eDAvNSEcwWGKxYgy92OIF_LCQyymGq4LuV6HM1smde9n5Phz4uY8XZCjVn4Yju8yivj0PIByKkaDvFnbJ8QW1sQGTOUUhcphXydqg4uU/s1600/28.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPV_-s6MDbdoAy2uHl4Q8LalGGeAs2nWFbea6eDAvNSEcwWGKxYgy92OIF_LCQyymGq4LuV6HM1smde9n5Phz4uY8XZCjVn4Yju8yivj0PIByKkaDvFnbJ8QW1sQGTOUUhcphXydqg4uU/s640/28.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="text-indent: -24px;">Devin Duval on The Fat One WI3. Unnamed Wall, Hyalite Canyon, Montana. </span><span style="background-color: transparent;">Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">“Spending time in the mountains, in wild places, is just as important for guides like Adam as it is for veterans. Being on a wall of brittle ice forces you to exist only in the present. The mind is focused on the spikes of the crampons and the tips of the ice tools, the pressure of the body on the ice--nothing else. The stress and confusion of careers, relationships, money, past mistakes, and future plans—everything is cleared away so that the mind and body can feel the ice and maintain vertical progression up the waterfall.” </span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">-Lindsey Robinson – U.S. Air Force<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8TFiI5Y5nSfvLKAbpvGvW0ydSM42Xj658NRTj7NhOaVZatDUjWG4p-Ay0ZPzVzgdGlWLKUo1Qpy9uBsn6f4qxWUhR7YGBsH3WWC90rlx3AgyV816ELIW6w7cUYnB9f678cIpI2UVGc5Y/s1600/29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8TFiI5Y5nSfvLKAbpvGvW0ydSM42Xj658NRTj7NhOaVZatDUjWG4p-Ay0ZPzVzgdGlWLKUo1Qpy9uBsn6f4qxWUhR7YGBsH3WWC90rlx3AgyV816ELIW6w7cUYnB9f678cIpI2UVGc5Y/s640/29.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="text-indent: -24px;">Lindsey Robinson on a pillar at the back of the Bingo Cave. Unnamed Wall, Hyalite Canyon, Montana. </span><span style="background-color: transparent;">Photo ©Nathan Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: transparent;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">"</span></span><span style="background-color: transparent;">The mountains and climbing are an important part of my life. The beauty and solitude I find there is invaluable to keep my life in balance. The friendships I’ve found in climbing are the closest thing I’ve found to the comradery and teamwork I experienced in the military. Joining this great group of veterans in the backcountry was an amazing experience I hope to repeat at some point.</span><span style="background-color: transparent;">" </span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: transparent;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: transparent;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">-Nathan Smith – U.S. Army, Liberty Mountain Employee</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: transparent;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfs4aoikHNFXMKXOD9d-qbNBTgwffEzlVzRZtGBosk9UVuSl5EKI2KFC6L2L4KuzqA22KgHqb1Cpg72GI9yHyJGFk3cdeF5qXlF0FcVu0Vx4ZV_0xtxtTfa1cchI9vodSBY8Cayl3ehMA/s1600/nathan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfs4aoikHNFXMKXOD9d-qbNBTgwffEzlVzRZtGBosk9UVuSl5EKI2KFC6L2L4KuzqA22KgHqb1Cpg72GI9yHyJGFk3cdeF5qXlF0FcVu0Vx4ZV_0xtxtTfa1cchI9vodSBY8Cayl3ehMA/s640/nathan.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="transparent-space: pre-wrap;">Nathan Smith on the Elevator Shaft WI4-. Unnamed Wall. Hyalite Canyon, </span><span style="background-color: transparent;">Montana. Photo ©Cheri Smith – Pullphotography.com</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<i><span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Photos by Nathan Smith @pullphoto <a href="http://pullphotography.com/">Pullphotography.com</a></span></i></div>
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">_________</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Like what you read? Share it with a friend.</span></span>Liberty Mountainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03093638744889511588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-914471312709317608.post-11237043497280587982017-01-03T09:49:00.001-07:002017-01-03T11:36:32.200-07:00Bozeman Ice Fest Recap<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="338" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/hqrfYXzE6eM" width="600"></iframe>
</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
This year the Bozeman Ice Fest was held from November 8-11. The festival celebrated its 20th anniversary and was essentially a four day party. Bozeman is located at the mouth of the world famous Hyalite canyon and offers fairly easy access to spectacular ice climbs. Hundreds of festival attendees were able to get out and climb some ice, test new gear, make new friends, and enjoy the adventure film series shown in the evenings.</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzhQQ5EqJbD4P_WMu2nrsB0hyMBkJnE8spAthGpRpZZ4XY-k4b_EUHcWndFkbP0C8_ceXl6FfIqrEuYLzZV2k1KGBjsbfqGbF2vYvBmN0ooxJIQGSNnEvcyOb1qr2Wa7n42lBjH_AUCn8/s1600/IMG_2420.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzhQQ5EqJbD4P_WMu2nrsB0hyMBkJnE8spAthGpRpZZ4XY-k4b_EUHcWndFkbP0C8_ceXl6FfIqrEuYLzZV2k1KGBjsbfqGbF2vYvBmN0ooxJIQGSNnEvcyOb1qr2Wa7n42lBjH_AUCn8/s640/IMG_2420.jpg" width="512" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kyle Rott on "The Good Lookin' One"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
The Liberty Mountain / Grivel team was lucky enough to get into town early and enjoy some ice before the crowds arrived. Tuesday we braved the cold morning weather and headed up to the Unnamed Wall for some laps on The Good Looking' One, The Thrill is Gone and a few other classic routes. </div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBsYTsQD046_w0SJA_56zB_Y7X-209HZ9kAjw7lyDAzGhmjkaynz4pe7n8jh_iuKHY42eXqQ3lQlH3qtStBEQ_JhcI7O1JerG_u-QkK4D_odgHZFIXYTZQVcbEzYQaQoeu_VhbnOhIlFE/s1600/IMG_2433.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBsYTsQD046_w0SJA_56zB_Y7X-209HZ9kAjw7lyDAzGhmjkaynz4pe7n8jh_iuKHY42eXqQ3lQlH3qtStBEQ_JhcI7O1JerG_u-QkK4D_odgHZFIXYTZQVcbEzYQaQoeu_VhbnOhIlFE/s640/IMG_2433.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Not only does it provide phenomenal ice, but the canyon isn't half bad looking either. Donations form the climbing community and from the festival itself play a big role in plowing the canyon road to provide access for climbers, skiers, hikers and other outdoor enthusiasts.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgliILKfPFU0iysT3VeVmp1dRQ22Kp-oQIiogThw7kiWgcpw6CShMJ2OOlOftjw26gI34AciMWzsr_nMCZIFv8VvG777ZS9HEdQ1uILDP9Xtk2iTErDNKM7RffkV9XQA7SPVJyCN-0H2r0/s1600/_DSC5617.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgliILKfPFU0iysT3VeVmp1dRQ22Kp-oQIiogThw7kiWgcpw6CShMJ2OOlOftjw26gI34AciMWzsr_nMCZIFv8VvG777ZS9HEdQ1uILDP9Xtk2iTErDNKM7RffkV9XQA7SPVJyCN-0H2r0/s640/_DSC5617.jpg" width="424" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Here's Liberty Mountain Sales Rep Thad VanDenBerghe gearing up for a climb during clinics on the Genesis Wall. The lineup of <a href="http://outdoordesignsequipment.com/store-gloves/" target="_blank">Outdoor Designs gloves</a> did a great job keeping our hands warm and dry during multiple back-to-back days on the ice. The Denali gloves that he's sporting here are great on belays and are bomber waterproof.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9fGziKH4La0SBQpPgz9EiwBNxLnMukTjNhpVO4CDWxwLZv9gtLONN3-FpefSO8AFQgVCqlY9DdEpxOcgpTAIkNmZIAQLVbQD48NW6DMYvxF1HVQN78szW4pkw_9xa6jgHyWgLY2cgRxM/s1600/_DSC5631.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9fGziKH4La0SBQpPgz9EiwBNxLnMukTjNhpVO4CDWxwLZv9gtLONN3-FpefSO8AFQgVCqlY9DdEpxOcgpTAIkNmZIAQLVbQD48NW6DMYvxF1HVQN78szW4pkw_9xa6jgHyWgLY2cgRxM/s640/_DSC5631.jpg" width="424" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Probably the best gear decision we made was to bring <a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5479/NTN15971/valandre-g2-jacket" target="_blank">Valandre G2's</a> as our belay jackets. These expedition weight down jackets are said to be one of the best and warmest options out there, and we are all definitely sold. The 850+ count goose down blocked out wind in negative temperatures and kept us toasty all week long. Not only did they serve our team well, but many others that we climbed with ended up in our jackets for belays too because theirs simply didn't compare.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Ga81j5bzOIpyPu5gGHipJu0Fo90oxVHUUhhKDq3eHLEICnZieEv-sBCn1UD548gU263LEhTmG1r73-ZS1YE_GUOo0XeioclGQQAp9oap59bVsNJa5yltwe3bLHtw-y-H0TsZDMeb79M/s1600/_DSC5614.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Ga81j5bzOIpyPu5gGHipJu0Fo90oxVHUUhhKDq3eHLEICnZieEv-sBCn1UD548gU263LEhTmG1r73-ZS1YE_GUOo0XeioclGQQAp9oap59bVsNJa5yltwe3bLHtw-y-H0TsZDMeb79M/s640/_DSC5614.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
One of the coolest parts of attending festivals and demoing out gear is getting feedback on what climbers like about our products and what they think could be improved. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvCdvdm7_otd80GzRuaarh_jdssj4YgT4Pq8phfKffTmnRqurLzuyQW4ZS2p7muL-8H2vwturrNSHMeqZiIZCTH-hxeK1A7uPCITAVpZHwd8NV86bztX2t2x0Az7ZnrN2zsjMUu0ripqU/s1600/_DSC5595.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvCdvdm7_otd80GzRuaarh_jdssj4YgT4Pq8phfKffTmnRqurLzuyQW4ZS2p7muL-8H2vwturrNSHMeqZiIZCTH-hxeK1A7uPCITAVpZHwd8NV86bztX2t2x0Az7ZnrN2zsjMUu0ripqU/s640/_DSC5595.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg61-kmBXDiep6xpHQUJL9QIqLyiT4yEeGQkDP7CuMUmDtI1uFWgismsvMRbb8RtTuXH4DunNO1g27VgwuEUiuEzlN0dtCd1yHUD8HVdJKDmCYS8LqyQ8-6C32PFsqy9cifP8Bz7c26nn0/s1600/_DSC5694.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg61-kmBXDiep6xpHQUJL9QIqLyiT4yEeGQkDP7CuMUmDtI1uFWgismsvMRbb8RtTuXH4DunNO1g27VgwuEUiuEzlN0dtCd1yHUD8HVdJKDmCYS8LqyQ8-6C32PFsqy9cifP8Bz7c26nn0/s640/_DSC5694.jpg" width="424" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfKENKdLj_xaKxQvR1IxRqIWioZ9gf-rcMVD49QjE460ZpYEHnKG92ru9_y0vBQD0gvYujOC1fHEI_i5YtRYSlDmj3W6vHPhxukJIfw5SxXW8rZ00_TlBVTM66uy4TjkEUyMFibnclric/s1600/_DSC5662.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfKENKdLj_xaKxQvR1IxRqIWioZ9gf-rcMVD49QjE460ZpYEHnKG92ru9_y0vBQD0gvYujOC1fHEI_i5YtRYSlDmj3W6vHPhxukJIfw5SxXW8rZ00_TlBVTM66uy4TjkEUyMFibnclric/s640/_DSC5662.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An Ice Fest attendee demos the brand new Grivel Salamander 2.0 helmet. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0S53ZMqeslhMHadbydeU6y4cxU0IGpntUbjr-9vj_MLNDUNsl4hVkkBqBeNvz73rRGJ55w0p37AHBrPUVKwFUgjBTpv42nSrUzsQnDh56AVkXJJuFtuLp6_CV4nCEVNrwDZzhhvucL6g/s1600/_DSC5684.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0S53ZMqeslhMHadbydeU6y4cxU0IGpntUbjr-9vj_MLNDUNsl4hVkkBqBeNvz73rRGJ55w0p37AHBrPUVKwFUgjBTpv42nSrUzsQnDh56AVkXJJuFtuLp6_CV4nCEVNrwDZzhhvucL6g/s640/_DSC5684.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
The new lineup of Grivel helmets recently arrived in the US and festival participants were some of the first to test them out. Above is Liberty Mountain Director of Sales Peter McConkie in the ultralight Stealth helmet. The Stealth weighs in at an unreal 6.7 ounces and comfortably houses both a beanie and flowing locks of hair in a one size fits all package.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuJN8dlxEPUKedZJfKL8AV9vhXXcg2FszojwlnJsae0p_H7zPSIshvj88Mmp1Igd-Lsv4wp5e1YQtquhEmfHhMChYiK9JGQaEH6O9rIKMRYwVkngGaRPeuOrBAgZRL_4A-ylOJYVyKdCI/s1600/_DSC5688.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuJN8dlxEPUKedZJfKL8AV9vhXXcg2FszojwlnJsae0p_H7zPSIshvj88Mmp1Igd-Lsv4wp5e1YQtquhEmfHhMChYiK9JGQaEH6O9rIKMRYwVkngGaRPeuOrBAgZRL_4A-ylOJYVyKdCI/s640/_DSC5688.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Even a local news broadcaster was able to get out on a pair of Grivel tools and crampons.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkLQ66NvZNWZdNsuIvaC0BoexuPBtDzxJucixsbi_xf7Kdz_eGXRy9MZ953QiIiOeLgEPPvTqoYyR4VfLjdYu002MEHCObj8JmcPbDWFkUDs9MgWQYbxd3AQ_Pwe7wz6xDRT5MZMbQXzw/s1600/_DSC5716.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkLQ66NvZNWZdNsuIvaC0BoexuPBtDzxJucixsbi_xf7Kdz_eGXRy9MZ953QiIiOeLgEPPvTqoYyR4VfLjdYu002MEHCObj8JmcPbDWFkUDs9MgWQYbxd3AQ_Pwe7wz6xDRT5MZMbQXzw/s640/_DSC5716.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
This is what Ice Fest headquarters back at the Emerson Center for Arts and Culture looked like. Festivals are one of the best opportunities to test out new gear before buying it. Each night festival participants had the chance to demo boots, ice tools, crampons, helmets, and even outerwear for their clinics the following day. Loads of companies bring some of their best products and let attendees take them for a ride. It's a chance to test out a bunch of different gear; things that you might someday purchase, and gear that you might only own in your dreams.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1i84cQ2NVoRPIIFj0_PoTLw9S_ZMvV8cbyoI-W4IprzC1wxqxmBXrfU2v2OriN13GSRD4vqpxof87ZY7Iq7WMi-39UNPShC3N0v-umHYyJTvj9yDm_WLzVQawHyHbDxaCr7bxYWAbwww/s1600/_DSC5699.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1i84cQ2NVoRPIIFj0_PoTLw9S_ZMvV8cbyoI-W4IprzC1wxqxmBXrfU2v2OriN13GSRD4vqpxof87ZY7Iq7WMi-39UNPShC3N0v-umHYyJTvj9yDm_WLzVQawHyHbDxaCr7bxYWAbwww/s640/_DSC5699.jpg" width="424" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
The Grivel team was making it happen at the demo table. Festival participants were able to test out loads of Grivel products including Tech Machines, Tech Machine Carbons, North Machines, Salamander 2.0 helmets, and both G-20 and G-22 crampons.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx1dyAC_JmWNFWMqNRAEahEzYgr6qHuYLeb-myUfZl3DgPrmY4d8XyUvhkp71cTZs23K9k78QghoveiGluC-qKxcyGFDNAqb-T4LuWmgpK7iY6_kucuk2cmeDFvPyWZ4ceh_aLlte5SzY/s1600/_DSC5727.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx1dyAC_JmWNFWMqNRAEahEzYgr6qHuYLeb-myUfZl3DgPrmY4d8XyUvhkp71cTZs23K9k78QghoveiGluC-qKxcyGFDNAqb-T4LuWmgpK7iY6_kucuk2cmeDFvPyWZ4ceh_aLlte5SzY/s640/_DSC5727.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Edelweiss was one of the beer sponsors and helped everyone enjoy drinks from Bridger Brewing.</div>
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: center;">
Athlete Clinics</h3>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
A few sponsored athletes were sharing their climbing knowledge during clinics at the festival. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8aP7B2tfeaGHAvbcUf5lAgQn2wp6b2XLfCzXxHAeRIhDPaQ9eiZh1Q4ZUZLev6I0DRk2_YMNmdvdI_WhHePjOeHSgUj-EmRccfEFxO1AMVapGfJyyK_R5gL9t5jOrstw5Je3ncRAktaQ/s1600/_DSC5782+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8aP7B2tfeaGHAvbcUf5lAgQn2wp6b2XLfCzXxHAeRIhDPaQ9eiZh1Q4ZUZLev6I0DRk2_YMNmdvdI_WhHePjOeHSgUj-EmRccfEFxO1AMVapGfJyyK_R5gL9t5jOrstw5Je3ncRAktaQ/s640/_DSC5782+2.jpg" width="424" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Here's Edelweiss USA athlete Scott Bennett leading a Fast and Light Clinic up the "Genesis Wall"</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiddTjpwxpzLeNusQzKObuBi6FKwSJSBZ448gpiLR_vh2YbU57hZsXKjNCCxCB_fOYDy5j4apwfBRgkR_fllniFJyyrZVcajjFeylNBw6WuyiveZxT0BHcLeegFbM3ZB201JyV4w6i75XE/s1600/_DSC5796.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiddTjpwxpzLeNusQzKObuBi6FKwSJSBZ448gpiLR_vh2YbU57hZsXKjNCCxCB_fOYDy5j4apwfBRgkR_fllniFJyyrZVcajjFeylNBw6WuyiveZxT0BHcLeegFbM3ZB201JyV4w6i75XE/s640/_DSC5796.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Grivel Athlete Shingo Okhawa taught an Intro to Leading Ice clinic and talked about the basics of swinging ice tools, proper movement, and placing ice screws. Check out some highlights of his clinic in the video above.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlWtNpzzpm8M9ekIas5yRvrt_pPgvGBfvcuqz18ls-7l_dnEbEXbx4RZ9qAPS8W6Epfy-jPuJ6DH0VzHqQFieywwzOREF-HfertPVdURhyphenhyphenWn1etZ7-1Z0bveW-eD30qJI2KxeKwvPQkfQ/s1600/IMG_2446.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlWtNpzzpm8M9ekIas5yRvrt_pPgvGBfvcuqz18ls-7l_dnEbEXbx4RZ9qAPS8W6Epfy-jPuJ6DH0VzHqQFieywwzOREF-HfertPVdURhyphenhyphenWn1etZ7-1Z0bveW-eD30qJI2KxeKwvPQkfQ/s640/IMG_2446.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxVnO7hAvEjUHQMxSbfkVBuX9uKePUHWkmPuY_FARuO-dxpIVUcvtcGzbSnAFgEMgWHdwNozFHB6HZkXIXnqKvVEYZeh74AzH7zS7iFMbqZgRpJYGS3CFiGCsCtTDsEnxw4iUi7baf6tg/s1600/_DSC5811.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxVnO7hAvEjUHQMxSbfkVBuX9uKePUHWkmPuY_FARuO-dxpIVUcvtcGzbSnAFgEMgWHdwNozFHB6HZkXIXnqKvVEYZeh74AzH7zS7iFMbqZgRpJYGS3CFiGCsCtTDsEnxw4iUi7baf6tg/s640/_DSC5811.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aaron Mulkey's Mixed Climbing Clinic on "The Thrill is Gone"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Grivel and Beal athlete Aaron Mulkey shared his expertise on mixed climbing during his clinic on the Unnamed Wall. He also showed how he captures rad drone shots like <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BN3cXfQhRrr/?taken-by=coldfear" target="_blank">this one</a> of the class on the same climb pictured above.<br />
<br />
A big thanks to all the volunteers and other sponsors who help make the festival happen each year. <b>See you next year at the 21st Bozeman Ice Fest!</b><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
_________<br />
<br />
Like what you read? Share it with a friend.Liberty Mountainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03093638744889511588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-914471312709317608.post-7013965950040204552016-11-16T16:20:00.000-07:002016-11-17T10:29:40.398-07:00Ice Climbing in the Beartooths: November 2016<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxGPwaxANVOD8xmdg1i0CgqYhvvpOECdJEkR9YFkTCzH52g80QHJDisgC-b233tR8bBrfv3Ggn7a-heGWjwpP5lmbRQcs7xrMrxk9gDjuvgkxaLBJqe8LJweKg__aLbrWOTC7aRv0SwaY/s1600/DSC01937-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxGPwaxANVOD8xmdg1i0CgqYhvvpOECdJEkR9YFkTCzH52g80QHJDisgC-b233tR8bBrfv3Ggn7a-heGWjwpP5lmbRQcs7xrMrxk9gDjuvgkxaLBJqe8LJweKg__aLbrWOTC7aRv0SwaY/s640/DSC01937-2.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri; font-size: 15px; text-align: start;">Alan Rousseau at the belay of Pitch 5 of Ice Dragons.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-size: 11pt;">The Fall of 2016 will go in the books as one of the warmest and driest on record for the intermountain west. Which for some user groups has been preferable: Mountain bikers, rock climbers, and trail runners have been shocked about the ability to still get up high and find dry conditions into mid-November. It has, however, left the ice climbing community pouring over photos, forums, and searching long range forecasts for somewhere within a days drive that has below freezing temps. Around the Salt Lake area one climber, Nathan Smith, is more vigilant than the rest. When I got a message from Nathan suggesting heading to the Beartooth’s (a remote range in Montana) to climb an ice line, of course I was interested. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: 11pt; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></span></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2J0EcsFDmZ95P_bb5r29Q9TCdW0nZZ6r02kcwSKrzW99wSHny7GAGIh7eb5Yle_CAPK9HEkdEvcEn0POoN8Jljz0Vv4nYrYK9i6wXZ-Ou6FGqP5Y9Up3jBR0DZLxQCGqK2r6ecdJQHXU/s1600/NK2_1905-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2J0EcsFDmZ95P_bb5r29Q9TCdW0nZZ6r02kcwSKrzW99wSHny7GAGIh7eb5Yle_CAPK9HEkdEvcEn0POoN8Jljz0Vv4nYrYK9i6wXZ-Ou6FGqP5Y9Up3jBR0DZLxQCGqK2r6ecdJQHXU/s640/NK2_1905-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri; font-size: 15px; text-align: start;">East Rosebud Lake. The trail starts on the left-hand side of the photo and winds it’s way up to the ice line on the far left.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: 11pt;">The Beartooth range is one that is generally kept quiet, people seem to keep information close to the chest. I had heard of it as this kind of mystical place, reserved for the hard, with flurries of development of long routes in rugged terrain. Which of course added to the appeal, but makes finding information regarding our planned route, Ice Dragons, not all that easy. Fortunately, Nathan spoke to someone that had recently climbed the route. However, we still had a wide range of ambiguity regarding technical difficulty. One guidebook suggested a grade of M6 WI4, while one trip report suggested WI3, lengths of the climb also varied from 1,000’ to 1,500’. Either way we were interested in climbing something frozen so we packed up the car and started the nine-hour drive to the East Rosebud Trailhead. Arriving with a couple hours of light we caught a view of Ice Dragons: A stunning ribbon of ice splitting the large north face, which forms the shoulder of Mount Inabit. Our binoculars confirmed that the line was very much in. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-size: 11pt;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8OuGQdsXP32HsRIoBu0Ve3RRg0l1Ddoi-Sk4OyFg0WMKikbvaRMtEeeao9iucFPysJcd_7CPlkmNVmbmtty9a2sOzu3GKKPPiOK42ZP2c_GyxAlnm48WVua8nMMcaEUOxFIPq9cSmHFc/s1600/DSC01918-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8OuGQdsXP32HsRIoBu0Ve3RRg0l1Ddoi-Sk4OyFg0WMKikbvaRMtEeeao9iucFPysJcd_7CPlkmNVmbmtty9a2sOzu3GKKPPiOK42ZP2c_GyxAlnm48WVua8nMMcaEUOxFIPq9cSmHFc/s640/DSC01918-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri; font-size: 15px; text-align: start;">Alan in the “five-mile basin” nearing the cirque holding Ice Dragons.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<span style="font-size: 11pt;">We began to read through approach information, and found two viable options. The first was less distance overall, but more mileage through unstable scree and talus fields. We opted for a second option that had a bit more mileage but less off-trail time. After plotting some waypoints into our maps we set off into grizzly country at 4 am, hoping our big four legged friends were deep in a winter slumber already. The first six miles of trail flew by in under two hours. We found ourselves under a large rock face known as “the Bears Face” from here we located a deep slot, filled with loose rock where we would gain 1300’ of elevation. It was classic one-step-forward-two-steps-back terrain, and was pretty time consuming. Eventually we popped out on the pleasant treed shoulder of Inabit and then dropped down and contoured into the talus filled “five-mile basin” where Ice Dragons can be found.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMin4Gq0GhiGRVgmG_do_jUMUDHjJHFRbY7vigXs2q205ZH-vlDdZ3eOqiO8N-E29WL6w8lWQTB_a8s32ED5ibfKXWNtUBEas6H4cxxgGTQEk9taPk9ACT5VP-62SW4RWNG4SSRz6iE9Q/s1600/DSC01922-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMin4Gq0GhiGRVgmG_do_jUMUDHjJHFRbY7vigXs2q205ZH-vlDdZ3eOqiO8N-E29WL6w8lWQTB_a8s32ED5ibfKXWNtUBEas6H4cxxgGTQEk9taPk9ACT5VP-62SW4RWNG4SSRz6iE9Q/s640/DSC01922-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri; font-size: 15px; text-align: start;">Navigating the talus leading up to Ice Dragons, the largest ice flow in the center of the photo.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 11pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-size: 15px;">We arrived at the foot of the route in five hours. We were told that the ice would get fatter and fatter with an Indian summer, but were still surprised at how much ice was there compared to conditions the first ascent party found. Instead of looking at a pitch of primarily rock, we were looking at a pitch of WI3 with maybe a move or two on the rock. </span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOo_zfHv4YV7evzxThDAVMXD7oH_nyRxdnXfkoaOdHakqpme-Np1jyH0FEBoCeaKxebXkV94ojElqI3PNJhvBbmyCFzv1hdVzAKhO9QEpyKjKb_zWufdEau1tgWkZ8ZhV3qUNe6-BNezg/s1600/DSC01927-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOo_zfHv4YV7evzxThDAVMXD7oH_nyRxdnXfkoaOdHakqpme-Np1jyH0FEBoCeaKxebXkV94ojElqI3PNJhvBbmyCFzv1hdVzAKhO9QEpyKjKb_zWufdEau1tgWkZ8ZhV3qUNe6-BNezg/s640/DSC01927-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri; font-size: 15px; text-align: start;">Alan Rousseau on the first pitch of Ice Dragons.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 15px;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: 15px;">The climb for us was mostly rambling WI3 and all pitches were around 60 meters in length. The ice was in great condition, not quite plastic but the majority was one hit sticks. The position and nature of the climb, up the obvious weakness in the wall, gave it a distinctly alpine feel. After 1,300’ of climbing we hit the plateau of Mount Inabit. We rappelled back down the route building two rock anchors and the rest were v-threads. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu0nLtzaN0Tjm8vHVXAFpP0KOaBg6L3qr8OX6V3qiSRIoaSs6o5CMRdVNEn5cMrMhx5Vt6CjQcKbG-O41cMZ6G4ICMq6Qaxq2rK9o0fh2DfnZOVefHLS_GOZ1jKf73ji7-JS6hC16vG-k/s1600/DSC01929-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu0nLtzaN0Tjm8vHVXAFpP0KOaBg6L3qr8OX6V3qiSRIoaSs6o5CMRdVNEn5cMrMhx5Vt6CjQcKbG-O41cMZ6G4ICMq6Qaxq2rK9o0fh2DfnZOVefHLS_GOZ1jKf73ji7-JS6hC16vG-k/s640/DSC01929-2.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri; font-size: 15px; text-align: start;">Alan Rousseau on the third pitch of Ice Dragons.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrSbQ3m1zXSGAtCH8yz-cf4owf1FQbmFBTbMCpASiVVQ6V64L4Fa86pi_dQ6tL1_EL1MdMTK9n8OVXN7lx7cY2sxSv-6YM6fBeTWjkKrL8Ost_RsWHvsCkIE0E7qjmPf3Hkis5Edfn0BA/s1600/DSC01933-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrSbQ3m1zXSGAtCH8yz-cf4owf1FQbmFBTbMCpASiVVQ6V64L4Fa86pi_dQ6tL1_EL1MdMTK9n8OVXN7lx7cY2sxSv-6YM6fBeTWjkKrL8Ost_RsWHvsCkIE0E7qjmPf3Hkis5Edfn0BA/s640/DSC01933-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri; font-size: 15px; text-align: start;">Looking back just a few miles to summer conditions lower on the trail.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNwk7_XowY6ri0-Uci_xmpo6GAqPjVKhADvwJhzDC3xZlDt1ypnn897OLhPHGDq2_giljW-iMR4dx49dJ53o58L88qghYu_LuSvw1Q8P7bFbGZuUDB3_QnnE53zWWm8pSb19fCNiXbaxc/s1600/image002.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNwk7_XowY6ri0-Uci_xmpo6GAqPjVKhADvwJhzDC3xZlDt1ypnn897OLhPHGDq2_giljW-iMR4dx49dJ53o58L88qghYu_LuSvw1Q8P7bFbGZuUDB3_QnnE53zWWm8pSb19fCNiXbaxc/s400/image002.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri; font-size: 15px; text-align: start;">Nathan Smith on the fourth pitch of Ice Dragons</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihqEsk_EGERQyOlaWDJk7NthFgbLJx-8PPMtjNusQHxt4O-nIqbRKLjIGib7EFjGWU4zPcKts19T6BeYifZfOFcZVLIMr-FNaviMQ9ukWK2MOUi4W5lHxRkdEKlsQJHKMz3xUhdxTSJUo/s1600/DSC01938-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihqEsk_EGERQyOlaWDJk7NthFgbLJx-8PPMtjNusQHxt4O-nIqbRKLjIGib7EFjGWU4zPcKts19T6BeYifZfOFcZVLIMr-FNaviMQ9ukWK2MOUi4W5lHxRkdEKlsQJHKMz3xUhdxTSJUo/s640/DSC01938-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri; font-size: 15px; text-align: start;">Alan at the top of the ice climbing. 300’ of snow and mixed lead to the plateau from here.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFaFSbWMBMu37dJ3fhFgo28q-Qa9TkH6b87UwQ2qg3jzhVZmU8nFjYSlDkPFvY2JHm0Qb0urif4xdlF39gYQ0JpWKGd4TPVfg3IqHIGT7FFXBE6TWw4jMFa2I5iNa8cOGObs4aV5DFdDg/s1600/DSC01939-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFaFSbWMBMu37dJ3fhFgo28q-Qa9TkH6b87UwQ2qg3jzhVZmU8nFjYSlDkPFvY2JHm0Qb0urif4xdlF39gYQ0JpWKGd4TPVfg3IqHIGT7FFXBE6TWw4jMFa2I5iNa8cOGObs4aV5DFdDg/s640/DSC01939-2.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri; font-size: 15px; text-align: start;">Alan punching his way up.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: 11pt;">For the descent we decided to take the more direct option that involved more off trail time. It also involved some undesirable scree fields but was not nearly as steep as the notch we climbed through that morning. The descent took around 3 hours from “five mile basin” to the car. We arrived at the car at 5:30 pm and had to turn on headlamps as we sorted through gear. Just as soon as we arrived we loaded up the car and started the long drive back to Salt Lake. Nathan took the helm all the way back, arriving back at in the city at 3:30 AM the same time our alarms sounded 24 hours earlier. The stats were 18 hours of driving, over 18 miles of walking, 5,300’ of elevation gain, 1,300’ of ice climbing, 45 and half hours Salt Lake to Salt Lake, and two climbers stoked for winter to show up in their backyard. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 11pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj36xEvua4d_Lf-WarapnxumMjFi2tz1ljxJCu3nqzb9fHj5WzuoJbQsCx3uvGQNxvbt8_1_1Zr9pQ8i8SAxZxSrXqMdBMdgspjo1_Ecp-_fHQCB81044TVqTWDSbtcDa61OLYXmef_ziU/s1600/DSC01949-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj36xEvua4d_Lf-WarapnxumMjFi2tz1ljxJCu3nqzb9fHj5WzuoJbQsCx3uvGQNxvbt8_1_1Zr9pQ8i8SAxZxSrXqMdBMdgspjo1_Ecp-_fHQCB81044TVqTWDSbtcDa61OLYXmef_ziU/s640/DSC01949-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri; font-size: 15px; text-align: start;">Alan hiking out after a fun day in the Beartooths.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 11pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-size: 11pt;">Thanks to Nathan for motivating, the Beartooth’s for being rad, and as always to Liberty Mountain for the continuing support.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-size: 11pt;">-Alan Rousseau</span></div>
Liberty Mountainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03093638744889511588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-914471312709317608.post-16761813483162302472016-10-27T14:47:00.000-06:002016-10-27T14:47:31.299-06:00Grivel Lambda Twin Gate Carabiner Reviewed by Alpinist Magazine<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU4IUJv_F_PECT7c9ecr7Iy_N0cDCV3YoJFMowLFgMc652kKFgkbU1FNLWM9am0dEAJViIc6-oDQOfnHt-yQOhOFHTbHoW8_609kUZaDmC3AK9M-a7UGPZaiOA8isW_jE6nJhV6EVOgQo/s1600/lambda.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU4IUJv_F_PECT7c9ecr7Iy_N0cDCV3YoJFMowLFgMc652kKFgkbU1FNLWM9am0dEAJViIc6-oDQOfnHt-yQOhOFHTbHoW8_609kUZaDmC3AK9M-a7UGPZaiOA8isW_jE6nJhV6EVOgQo/s640/lambda.jpg" width="379" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: Alpinist.com</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The Mountain Standards review team at Alpinist Magazine recently put the Grivel Lambda HMS twin gate carabiner to the test. While it didn't get the highest all around scores, it did prove to be excellent at exactly what it was designed for, building anchors and belaying with a tube style device. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">From the review: </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white;">"</span><span style="background-color: white;">In a tube-style belay device, the Lambda's roomy curves and auto-locking assurance performed beautifully"</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">"The bent gate made it easy to clip the rope to crucial pieces of gear, and the 11 kN minor axis rating means the 'biner could hold the biggest fall I might ever take, even cross-loaded. It brought some highly sought-after peace of mind while I was building the anchor for a hanging belay from a tenuous stance."</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://alpinist.com/doc/web16f/ms-grivel-lambda-hms-twin-gate-carabiner-review" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Read the full review here</span></a></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana; font-size: 13px;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana; font-size: 13px;"><br /></span>Liberty Mountainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03093638744889511588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-914471312709317608.post-35037805501596896332016-09-28T10:09:00.000-06:002016-09-28T10:09:03.974-06:00Gear Review: Grivel G10 Crampon<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGOdl_NE7FYfnfmz7ZcvVGw6PB4NvVmom1jWWIEdk81u4K5pp5BLTICG8NClGRsVWxwkCQ1qudyNA65hR0W9ol_6A7jGPId_vq1xL-8pPyFwnaubQ5ibCE-CkRC8DnCnTwxwd90Oqq3ow/s1600/Screen+Shot+2016-09-28+at+9.20.47+AM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="344" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGOdl_NE7FYfnfmz7ZcvVGw6PB4NvVmom1jWWIEdk81u4K5pp5BLTICG8NClGRsVWxwkCQ1qudyNA65hR0W9ol_6A7jGPId_vq1xL-8pPyFwnaubQ5ibCE-CkRC8DnCnTwxwd90Oqq3ow/s640/Screen+Shot+2016-09-28+at+9.20.47+AM.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: Dirtbag Dreams blog post</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Zack McGill, a guide for Outward Bound, recently had a chance to review the <a href="http://www.grivel.com/products/ice/crampons/2-g10?binding=1" target="_blank">Grivel G10 crampon</a> while guiding teams over some Alaskan glaciers. The G10 is one of Grivel's classic crampons that is designed for all around mountaineering. The crampons are fully adjustable, making them great for use by guide services, and feature Grivel's patented active anti-balling system to shed snow and ice from the bottom of the foot.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">In his review, Zack says "t<span style="background-color: white;">hey performed well on everything from dry glacier, frozen sun-cupped snow, and the mashed potatoes of the afternoon sun." He later adds "</span><span style="background-color: white;">The anti-balling plates were clutch and one of the best features on the </span><a href="https://www.outdoorprolink.com/p-14114-grivel-g10-crampon.aspx" style="-webkit-transition: color 350ms ease-in-out, background-color 350ms ease-in-out; box-sizing: inherit; text-decoration: none; transition: color 350ms ease-in-out, background-color 350ms ease-in-out;">G10</a><span style="background-color: white;">. They shrugged off unwanted snow so well that I didn’t even notice the struggle bus others were boarding until people were yelling for me to stop so they could angrily whack at their heels with their ice axes."</span></span><br />
<br />
Read the full review from Dirtbag Dreams <a href="https://dirtbagdreams.com/2016/09/28/proview-grivel-g10-new-matic-crampon/" target="_blank">here</a>Liberty Mountainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03093638744889511588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-914471312709317608.post-66108719238998294302016-09-01T14:42:00.002-06:002016-09-01T14:42:25.139-06:00Gear Review: Grivel Shuttle<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVcYJnb7VO4SH4NNIulza3HvFcudTebhevQyGpEQHvhj2ZV-GPLw6z9mzLWODSphDPbtrlAv635h8I78g4Esp7Piy-uIQ3FyTUkBVWBPEvSs9BYKVIggU2bGqbgrvbgQYHNoFIMWq2V7w/s1600/20160718_080420-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVcYJnb7VO4SH4NNIulza3HvFcudTebhevQyGpEQHvhj2ZV-GPLw6z9mzLWODSphDPbtrlAv635h8I78g4Esp7Piy-uIQ3FyTUkBVWBPEvSs9BYKVIggU2bGqbgrvbgQYHNoFIMWq2V7w/s640/20160718_080420-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: #444444;">The gear squad from the outdoor blog <a href="https://dirtbagdreams.com/" target="_blank">Dirtbag Dreams</a> recently tested the <a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5497/758595/grivel-shuttle-belay-device" target="_blank">Grivel Shuttle</a> plaquette style belay device in the Flatirons and Boulder Canyon. The reviewer, Sean Smith is a guide for Denver Mountain Guiding. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: inherit;">From the review: "<span style="background-color: white;">All in all the </span><span style="color: #444444;">Grivel Shuttle</span><span style="background-color: white;"> is a reliable belay plate. Its design allows for big wallers to combine pieces of kit to cut down on harness clutter, as well as offering the fast and light alpinist to have a solid belay on wet and icy ropes. The multiple orientations create some much-needed diversity in use for a single plate, allowing the leader to adapt to the speed of the situation that is not offered in the average belay plate."</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: #444444;">Read the full review <a href="https://dirtbagdreams.com/2016/08/30/proview-grivel-shuttle-belay-plate/" target="_blank">here</a></span>Liberty Mountainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03093638744889511588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-914471312709317608.post-12833955765982032972016-07-28T12:29:00.001-06:002016-07-28T12:29:37.407-06:00Gear Review: Beal Booster 9.7mm<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-lXZ89WQ1HsWfCY9aRQybfkzLMlHAdH4-spjEMN56ePG9kaUtgqQFnZrPWmyGpWgPNqygJqT1NW1nE5H6kF7hrOHFthGqrMhMvH5PzQUKvkJTzX_4E0YT6l8qLDvlDCeo_97LP34N1yM/s1600/Screen+Shot+2016-07-28+at+12.16.42+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="308" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-lXZ89WQ1HsWfCY9aRQybfkzLMlHAdH4-spjEMN56ePG9kaUtgqQFnZrPWmyGpWgPNqygJqT1NW1nE5H6kF7hrOHFthGqrMhMvH5PzQUKvkJTzX_4E0YT6l8qLDvlDCeo_97LP34N1yM/s640/Screen+Shot+2016-07-28+at+12.16.42+PM.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The <a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5566/NTN17096/beal-booster" target="_blank">Beal Booster 9.7mm</a> rope recently received some love from <a href="http://ukclimbing.com/">UKClimbing.com</a>. In their review of the rope, the British review site called the rope "easy to flake," "resistant to kinking," "<span style="background-color: white;">an extremely hard wearing rope that will take a lot of punishment," and "a sport climbing workhorse."</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The Booster is part of Beal's Mountain Line of ropes that features dry treated cords for all-mountain applications. The rope excels as a sport climbing rope, but performs just as well in trad or alpine climbing. This rope weighs in at only 63 g/m, has a low impact force of 7.3 kn, and is rated to 9 UIAA falls. </span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">To read the full review of the Booster 9.7mm, take a look at the <a href="http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=8413" target="_blank">UKC site</a></span></span>Liberty Mountainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03093638744889511588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-914471312709317608.post-19061924510556519422016-07-25T09:30:00.000-06:002016-07-25T09:30:16.339-06:00Valandre Lafayette Recognized by Spanish Climbing Magazine<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoES2Tx_q0m5LtWm3M5MWjhcXc1Mp-XlbVDWt9utcylht4GIDYpakTAuDVc5rg2kvcmSgabjUdRyhe9CEn0fmQ78rPQ7Izha81wC0J4AJbfxiPDshShk8n21gqp1FPN0rUaFzrOOezkKI/s1600/Screen+Shot+2016-07-22+at+10.42.45+AM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="332" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoES2Tx_q0m5LtWm3M5MWjhcXc1Mp-XlbVDWt9utcylht4GIDYpakTAuDVc5rg2kvcmSgabjUdRyhe9CEn0fmQ78rPQ7Izha81wC0J4AJbfxiPDshShk8n21gqp1FPN0rUaFzrOOezkKI/s640/Screen+Shot+2016-07-22+at+10.42.45+AM.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The Lafayette expedition sleeping bag was recently recognized as the gold winner in the sleeping bag category by Spanish climbing magazine <a href="http://desnivel.com/material/premio-desnivel/fallado-el-viii-premio-desnivel-de-material-2016-8-ganadores-de-oro-55-ganadores-de-plata" target="_blank">Desnivel</a>. The award is given for products that incorporate innovation as well as top of the line quality and function. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The Lafayette Sleeping bag by Valandre is a super light bag that is perfect for fast and light alpine climbing missions. The bag packs down small, weighs in at just over two pounds, and uses 850+ fill goose down as insulation. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
To learn more, take a look at <a href="http://www.valandre.com/blog/2016/07/22/valandre-lafayette-desnivel-gold-award/" target="_blank">this post</a> by Valandre, or visit the product page <a href="http://www.valandre.com/sleeping-bags/lafayette.html" target="_blank">here</a>. </div>
Liberty Mountainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03093638744889511588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-914471312709317608.post-2808411709162819552016-07-22T10:30:00.000-06:002016-07-22T10:30:19.656-06:00Cypher Vesta Sport Draws Featured in Climbing Magazine<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieok8o7t05xCoToB99IWlleTJ5XIRPI7pLRUTtFQ2NUPoIVD75_JlhJisfPCVxbPmh82MPUmd_FjE498A60PIE9UoYsw-RP02MXQlIBSadwPZvyNfyHyYbRv0eIc-3U33YSHFxYkdLUj4/s1600/vesta.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieok8o7t05xCoToB99IWlleTJ5XIRPI7pLRUTtFQ2NUPoIVD75_JlhJisfPCVxbPmh82MPUmd_FjE498A60PIE9UoYsw-RP02MXQlIBSadwPZvyNfyHyYbRv0eIc-3U33YSHFxYkdLUj4/s640/vesta.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The latest issue of <a href="http://www.climbing.com/" target="_blank">Climbing Magazine </a>features the <a href="http://cypherclimbing.com/products-quickdraws/vesta-sport-quickdraw" target="_blank">Cypher Vesta Sport</a> quickdraw in the gear review section of the magazine. The review features new and innovative products that Climbing Magazine testers have used and abused on the mountain. "Simple. Affordable. Durable. Lightweight" were only a few of the adjectives used to describe these draws from Cypher. Reviewers loved the fat dogbone for times that they had to bail while clipping, but also the fact that the nylon sling got skinnier at the ends in order to save a little weight.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
To read the full review, and hear some rad stories from the climbing community, check out the July / August issue of Climbing Magazine.</div>
Liberty Mountainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03093638744889511588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-914471312709317608.post-56227655300429750922016-07-20T09:30:00.000-06:002016-07-20T09:30:24.923-06:00Grivel Zen Featured in Climbing Magazine <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsX65lDyBr8GcI5dr3bee57Y62sY6Gxzt2z3KutC5Muiw33AMb393OdkTDRhMD7r9LQNzebLE2HxYofF0ToE85F4oHoJAmbIKUKDYMZuFbOQunQwca43hZCp0-cpqwfkQvQzYV-8ai9Rk/s1600/5612-climbing-Cover-2016-July-1-Issue.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsX65lDyBr8GcI5dr3bee57Y62sY6Gxzt2z3KutC5Muiw33AMb393OdkTDRhMD7r9LQNzebLE2HxYofF0ToE85F4oHoJAmbIKUKDYMZuFbOQunQwca43hZCp0-cpqwfkQvQzYV-8ai9Rk/s640/5612-climbing-Cover-2016-July-1-Issue.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
The July/August 2016 issue of <a href="http://www.climbing.com/" target="_blank">Climbing Magazine</a> focuses on alpine climbing and the skills and equipment necessary for long days on the mountain. The gear review of gear hauling backpacks names the <a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5580/NTN16119/grivel-zen" target="_blank">Grivel Zen</a> 40 pack as the best "Burly Workhorse." The review calls the pack "light and tougher than nails" and mentions that it can "take heavy abuse and still perform."<br />
<br />
To read the full review, and see the other products that Climbing magazine recommends check out this month's issue on newsstands now.Liberty Mountainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03093638744889511588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-914471312709317608.post-60193511247102353752016-06-15T14:42:00.000-06:002016-06-15T14:44:30.429-06:00Gear Review: Valandre Shocking Blue Neo<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimLsHUVQ2_K_EgRFIlIVPaQJD5x0d_GMPYlFX-fE7xYcOyLYzZUZobaUO43d7xaieh2U04KpBlpylMjPCjG_G02OJD0JOpkmwj_dvMhzKJUB6ehiWT0CHznT12ByxfMHidthPyXfSsaM0/s1600/Screen+Shot+2016-06-15+at+12.44.12+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimLsHUVQ2_K_EgRFIlIVPaQJD5x0d_GMPYlFX-fE7xYcOyLYzZUZobaUO43d7xaieh2U04KpBlpylMjPCjG_G02OJD0JOpkmwj_dvMhzKJUB6ehiWT0CHznT12ByxfMHidthPyXfSsaM0/s1600/Screen+Shot+2016-06-15+at+12.44.12+PM.png" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The outdoor gear experts at <a href="http://www.gearinstitute.com/" target="_blank">Gear Institute</a> recently published a review of the <a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/5583/NTN12249/valandre-shocking-blue" target="_blank">Valandre Shocking Blue Neo</a> sleeping bag. During a 12 night trip in the Ozark Mountains, the reviewers used the bag in temperatures well below freezing and were able to gain a pretty good understanding of exactly what the bag can handle. </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">In the review, they said "<span style="background-color: white;">The Valandre Shocking Blue is a very lightweight and technical sleeping bag with the best warmth to rate ratio in this category. <span style="font-family: inherit;">Adding later, "</span></span></span><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The Valandre Shocking Blue is roomy and warm for its weight. The baffles allow for the down inside the bag to “puff” up, creating a very comfortable fit and feel. It has the most technical collar and hood on any bag I have tested and a foot box that allows me to point my large feet up into the air all make for a very comfortable sleeping bag."</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Read the <a href="http://www.gearinstitute.com/hiking/item/valandre-shocking-blue-neo?category_id=175" target="_blank">full review here</a></span></span></div>
Liberty Mountainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03093638744889511588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-914471312709317608.post-40577861791872509502016-06-01T10:01:00.000-06:002016-06-01T10:01:18.891-06:00Climb Faster and Safer with the Grivel ClepsydraThe Grivel Clepsydra Twin Gate Carabiner is a faster and safer locking carabiner; ideal for belaying and rappelling.<br />
<br />
Faster because you don't have to waist time with a traditional screw-gate. Just open the outer gate to clip it or the inner gate to unclip it and you're done.<br />
<br />
Safer because it's always locked. There is no locking mechanism that will get jammed or unlocked by accident. When both spring-loaded gates are closed, the carabiner is locked and secure.<br />
<br />
The Clepsydra features a captive gate on the lower end that keeps the carabiner from cross loading when belaying or rappelling. This safety feature assures that the carabiner will be loaded on its major axis which can withstand more than twice the amount of force than when it's cross loaded on its minor axis (22kN vs. 9kN).<br />
<br />
Watch this video to see the Grivel Clepsydra in action:<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="383" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/FJplafyAYTY?rel=0" width="680"></iframe><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
_________<br />
<br/>Like what you read? Share it with a friend.Liberty Mountainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03093638744889511588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-914471312709317608.post-69143578339689861932016-05-23T14:09:00.002-06:002016-05-23T14:10:05.223-06:00Watch Edelweiss USA Athlete Cheyne Lempe on Baffin IslandEdelweiss USA athlete Cheyne Lempe came back from a trip to Baffin
Island with a first ascent and a new outlook on adventure climbing. The trip started out as the fulfillment of a life long dream, but things quickly took a turn for the worse. Watch the short film "<a href="https://vimeo.com/151439063" target="_blank">Haywire</a>" to see the full story.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0QOFpB8NAAPpvSPoNNRst1jzVKTosiMQdOpJ_wfK2KWBMkAcvKDVijfoANrQCh67NKn4kSJAfgZPHw0npKLU5hF-0fGtOAgkY8nDr9YMuZltcK88aWHCpRvZnjPcveDSSq0tbr4m6jEE/s1600/DSC00798-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0QOFpB8NAAPpvSPoNNRst1jzVKTosiMQdOpJ_wfK2KWBMkAcvKDVijfoANrQCh67NKn4kSJAfgZPHw0npKLU5hF-0fGtOAgkY8nDr9YMuZltcK88aWHCpRvZnjPcveDSSq0tbr4m6jEE/s1600/DSC00798-Edit.jpg" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzFGdzxTL5cYOW6wu3MhiiDO_hpIYHAvWbGVCwxrYXLvwP58tIuoL1cHu01SeYKSiVop1Yn8jzuLbE2exBwyufyoTCEFUDx7FYmy2IL2rdQVlOKQtBBdv8ck1eHCD-rPFtSOgqgRAk6tM/s1600/DSC01599.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzFGdzxTL5cYOW6wu3MhiiDO_hpIYHAvWbGVCwxrYXLvwP58tIuoL1cHu01SeYKSiVop1Yn8jzuLbE2exBwyufyoTCEFUDx7FYmy2IL2rdQVlOKQtBBdv8ck1eHCD-rPFtSOgqgRAk6tM/s640/DSC01599.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Check out the full video here: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=https%3A%2F%2Fvimeo.com%2F151439063&h=BAQEO3sb-AQEpiJCHLntTLBhY9Sx6rhXyJgT_fvW5XqaNFw&enc=AZOFBdaFRMkb8E-UxKBFVWJUEdwktKumLkfqU79ZKZ_JfpvOnHXT0fE4y3j4kTOSa71PzYYHVoC8jkdZGJegUqC48TDyedzS5YbcWcmTISoBSYacSxgcN2lSOXgcfy8BGtqs3YHiBnpk5v-G1Bag81cG8QL3j8GCANfssBOzBOV-0POpK1rlFNHz5bkVXjlx87GAPbGq4-7AVWIBZRccuAUG&s=1" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://vimeo.com/151439063</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
</div>
</div>
Liberty Mountainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03093638744889511588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-914471312709317608.post-56873584825210420182016-05-20T15:40:00.001-06:002016-05-20T15:49:59.430-06:00Gear Review: Grivel Apollo Harness<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.climbing.com/gear/review-grivel-apollo-climbing-harness/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK3gYzi5gfoDcuDYNTXefRL1df52kNUyLt65IpMLO0hmJjfZ_Z9-qWBO4nvtvb48U87R1ChogIp2EKT_scdtn4s12VPB7yQoN_EcLw_-rVXGeJkB5aOarX0udy15dlTR7CUccMDlQ2mb0/s640/Screen+Shot+2016-05-20+at+3.34.30+PM.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.climbing.com/gear/review-grivel-apollo-climbing-harness/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXYxlb85yEKFli6b3CgkHrfDr0JnKj3CUYvqx6SgptcnFBmlmmM8i80ZuhkMlFXKfzixNQYQUhyphenhyphen6G6X53ih-LP9-QSz24jYfLTP8O47mIOrcf421gVgYp8EGIt2PJGI8xrfTMz_z42ueE/s400/Screen+Shot+2016-05-20+at+3.35.12+PM.png" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="http://www.climbing.com/" target="_blank">Climbing Magazine</a> recently published a review of the <a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/products/6176/NTN16764/grivel-apollo-harness" target="_blank">Grivel Apollo Climbing Harnes</a>s. Among other praises from those testing the product, they described it as a "Minimalist but functional design that offers a surprising amount of comfort. It is easy to adjust, pleasant to wear all day, and has a featherweight for a fully featured harness."</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Read the full review <a href="http://www.climbing.com/gear/review-grivel-apollo-climbing-harness/" target="_blank">here</a></div>
Liberty Mountainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03093638744889511588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-914471312709317608.post-4189497179630736702016-05-19T09:00:00.000-06:002016-05-19T09:00:31.364-06:00Gear Review: Singing Rock Penta<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="383" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Cf85gC86E2s" width="680"></iframe><br />
<br />
The folks at <a href="http://www.rockandice.com/" target="_blank">Rock and Ice</a> magazine recently published a review of the Singing Rock Penta Helmet. Among other things, the reviewer called it "a foam lid that at just over seven ounces almost seems made of air."<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-helmet-review/singing-rock-penta" target="_blank">Read the full review here</a> and see what other tips and gear reviews their experts have to offer.<br />
<br />Liberty Mountainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03093638744889511588noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-914471312709317608.post-27493937037022769802016-03-14T16:28:00.002-06:002016-03-14T16:30:03.304-06:00Trip Beta: Eldorado Canyon<i><a href="http://www.libertymountain.com/page.aspx?name=edelweiss" target="_blank">Edelweiss</a> athlete Scott Bennett shares some valuable beta for executing a climbing trip to Eldorado Canyon, CO.</i><br />
<br />
On the eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains, just before the massive cordillera gives way to endless flatlands, the tiny stream of South Boulder Creek has spent the past 70 million years slicing through ancient sand and mud. Down through the red, orange, yellow and purple layers, the persistent little stream has sculpted towering walls and buttresses, so narrow that its handiwork is nearly hidden from the eastern plains. Once you enter Eldorado Canyon, however, you'll appreciate all those years of hard work.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1lS5FD-o9t0/Vuc6UYN-03I/AAAAAAAAZhI/NS15UraYgBw70CxtLtcB_ThlfFlOHqjKg/s1600/image1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1lS5FD-o9t0/Vuc6UYN-03I/AAAAAAAAZhI/NS15UraYgBw70CxtLtcB_ThlfFlOHqjKg/s640/image1.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
<i>Eldorado, CO</i></div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
<br /></div>
Eldo, as it's universally known, is a natural wonder that attracts tourists and picnickers from across the country. It has a special place, however, in the hearts of us climbers, the ones who explore the vertical nooks and crannies of this multifaceted playground.<br />
<br />
Located just south of Boulder Colorado, Eldo has been a historic center of American climbing for decades, witnessing the progression of the sport from aid to free climbing, and from fringe to mainstream. You feel that history as soon as you grab the holds, which have been rounded and polished by countless hands and feet. You can also sense that history when you squint upwards, searching for that next piece of protection: Eldo is not a sport climbing venue. While there are many bolts scattered about the canyon, nearly every route requires traditional protection, route finding skill, and sound judgment.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1LKBffpbbzA/Vuc6Uu5_3lI/AAAAAAAAZhM/dQ67D3WXIcQLDhLxi2yil8vo1D9Kf0xRA/s1600/image2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1LKBffpbbzA/Vuc6Uu5_3lI/AAAAAAAAZhM/dQ67D3WXIcQLDhLxi2yil8vo1D9Kf0xRA/s640/image2.jpeg" width="457" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
<i>The author on “To RP or not to be” 5.11+ X</i></div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
<br /></div>
<br />
This is a quick guide to whet your appetite for visiting Eldorado Canyon, and to point you in the right direction. By no means is it comprehensive, but hopefully it'll get you stoked to check out my favorite crag!<br />
<br />
<b>Guidebook/ Local Beta:</b><br />
The definitive guidebook is “Eldorado Canyon: A Climbing Guide” by longtime local Steve Levin. Now in it's second edition, this book sets a new standard for comprehensive and useful information, as well as beautiful photos and witty descriptions.<br />
Since Eldo routes can be complicated and tricky to protect, I'd also recommend reading the description and comments on MountainProject.com. Originally ClimbingBoulder.com, this website hosts a nearly comprehensive database of routes, and nearly endless threads debating the precise letter grade of any given route... A bit tedious, but useful if you wanna tackle something at your limit.<br />
<br />
<b>Lodging:</b><br />
Boulder is home of many climbers, but isn't really on the dirtbag roadtrip circuit due to the lack of convenient camping. The Boulder Adventure Lodge (a-lodge.com), located two miles west of town up Boulder Canyon, and about 20 minutes from Eldo, does offer hostel rooms and plans to open some camping in the near future (summer 2016). Otherwise, you can drive about 20 miles further up Boulder Canyon past Nederland and find dispersed camping in the National Forest.<br />
<br />
Beyond camping, you might have luck with Couchsurfing.com in Boulder, or at least AirBnB.<br />
<br />
<b>Food and Gear:</b><br />
There are no shops or cafes in Eldorado Springs, the town just outside the state park, so you'll have to drive up to Boulder. Here you'll find a huge array of cuisine to fit any sensitive dietary niche. Climbers love to stop at the Southern Sun brew pub for greasy burgers and strong beer. If there's a 45 minute wait, stop in next door at Neptune Mountaineering to buy chalk and check out their mini climbing museum with tons of cool photos and artifacts.<br />
<br />
In downtown Boulder, Sherpa's restaurant is another favorite for hungry climbers. It's run by Pemba Sherpa, a former Everest guide, and you can peruse his collection of climbing guidebooks while you sit at the bar.<br />
<br />
<b>Routes:</b><br />
You'll find tons of info and recommendations on the CLASSICS at Mountain Project, but unfortunately you might find crowds on them as well, if you go on a weekend. So, if you're dead-set on Yellow Spur or Bastille Crack, go midweek or be ready with a backup plan. So, here's a few (relatively) hidden classics that might make good backups to the more well-traveled ones.<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Psuedo Sidetrack, 5.4</li>
<li>Icarus, 5.6</li>
<li>E.L. 100, 5.8-</li>
<li>Body Tremors, 5.8 R</li>
<li>Anthill Direct, 5.9 R</li>
<li>C'est la Morte, 5.9 </li>
<li>Allosaur, 5.9</li>
<li>Green Spur, 5.9</li>
<li>The Metamorphasis, 5.10-</li>
<li>Captain Beyond, 5.10</li>
<li>The Serpent, 5.10</li>
<li>Psychosis-Psycho Pigeon, 5.11-</li>
<li>Doub-Griffith, 5.11</li>
<li>The Wisdom, 5.11+</li>
<li>After the Gold Rush, 5.12-</li>
<li>The Book of Numbers, 5.12+</li>
</ul>
<br />
<b>Approaches and Descents: </b><br />
Eldo is a quite small canyon, but highly featured rock and decades of intense exploration have allowed it to be densely packed with amazing lines. The Bastille offers roadside cragging, and most routes are 10-20 minutes away from the parking lot. A few zones like Rincon and Shirttail are perched high on the hillside, requiring steep 30-40 minute hikes but giving them a more remote feel and spectacular views west to the snowy Continental Divide.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AEOrDa1DiKo/Vuc6UaKb1TI/AAAAAAAAZhQ/ouypdhI1NeUsO_CpGuJSeKmoe5S8KcfgA/s1600/image3.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AEOrDa1DiKo/Vuc6UaKb1TI/AAAAAAAAZhQ/ouypdhI1NeUsO_CpGuJSeKmoe5S8KcfgA/s640/image3.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
<i>Forest Woodward follows “Le Toit” 5.11-, one of the many closely packed routes on the south face of Redgarden wall.</i></div>
<br />
Descents vary, but nearly every long route (and some short ones) require complicated scrambling and navigation. The East Slabs descent, one option after topping out many long routes on Redgarden, is notoriously tricky and steep. Consult the guidebook, and bring a headlamp and some lightweight approach shoes.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kqIRFVszJsw/Vuc6VKLH_FI/AAAAAAAAZhY/zEx4RKDl_Jcak3syxSOe2KqlKYxQWhiaw/s1600/image4.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kqIRFVszJsw/Vuc6VKLH_FI/AAAAAAAAZhY/zEx4RKDl_Jcak3syxSOe2KqlKYxQWhiaw/s640/image4.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
<i>The sun gets low in the west, time to start thinking about the descent.</i></div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
<br /></div>
<b>Season:</b><br />
It's possible to climb in Eldo all 12 months of the year, but fall is probably the most reliable season in which to travel here. Spring has great temperatures and long days, but it's the wettest season here. Summer mornings are consistently nice, even on hot days, but afternoon thunderstorms frequently develop over the Rockies. Winters days can be sunny and wonderful, but sometimes very windy. Whenever you go, pay attention to the forecast and come prepared for fast-changing conditions.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tZjnUK7cp84/Vuc6U-3qRtI/AAAAAAAAZhU/uSEkiliJOMciKZOF9ih4ZqAiVxGFY_V_Q/s1600/image5.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tZjnUK7cp84/Vuc6U-3qRtI/AAAAAAAAZhU/uSEkiliJOMciKZOF9ih4ZqAiVxGFY_V_Q/s1600/image5.jpeg" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
<i>Matt Lloyd on “Guenese” 5.11- on a sunny winter day.</i></div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
<br /></div>
<b>Closures:</b><br />
The cliffs of Redgarden wall and Shirttail peak are home to Peregrine Falcons, and select areas are sometimes closed to protect nests. In years past, the closures have been from February 1 to August 1, though they're always closely monitored and kept opened whenever possible. In 2015 and 2016 there were no closures on Redgarden, and so far in 2016 none on Shirttail. Check the BoulderClimbers.org for current closures.<br />
<br />
<b>Red Tape:</b><br />
Eldorado Canyon is a Colorado State Park, and charges an $8 fee per vehicle. An annual pass, good at all CO State Parks, is available for $70. Anyone with trailwork experience will appreciate the amazingly steep and well constructed trails in Eldo, and our user fees help support the the active park maintenance staff.<br />
<br />
Any bolting in the canyon must be approved by park rangers, who are responsible for approving bolt replacement and upgrades. New routes requiring bolts must be considered by a community voting process, facilitated by the Action Committee for Eldorado (ACEeldo.org).<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Nearby Areas:</b><br />
Colorado's Front Range is home to a great variety of crags, so if you visit make sure to check out the granite cracks and scary slabs of the South Platte and Lumpy Ridge, the enjoyable bolted lines of Boulder Canyon and Clear Creek, and the alpine wonderlands of Rocky Mountain National Park and Mount Evans. Closest of all to Eldo, the Flatirons feature the same bulletproof sandstone, but often arrayed into long meandering slabs, making for the best long 5.4-5.6 routes anywhere.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sk07G68kVE4/Vuc6VOTAOKI/AAAAAAAAZhc/VMf8NE5TiEMNJdsQvrga9pnTY14XkFrmw/s1600/image6.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sk07G68kVE4/Vuc6VOTAOKI/AAAAAAAAZhc/VMf8NE5TiEMNJdsQvrga9pnTY14XkFrmw/s640/image6.jpeg" width="479" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
<i>The striking aretes of Redgarden wall</i></div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
<br /></div>
<br />
Good luck and stay safe out there!<br />
<br />
-<a href="https://ropeandsummit.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Scott Bennett</a><br />
<br />
<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Photos from the Scott Bennett collection.</span></i><br />
<div>
<br /></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0