Showing posts with label Climbing Gear. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Climbing Gear. Show all posts

9/06/2019

Gear Check - Grivel by Shingo Ohkawa



"Whether it's here in our backyard, Utah's Wasatch mountains, or at the roof of the world in the Greater Ranges--exploratory climbing is my game: seeking out unclimbed, alpine rock has been my obsession since I first tied-in.  Realizing new routes in the high country requires a diversity of skills; it's not enough just to be adept at rock climbing.  Often, just reaching the base of the climb involves a complex approach across snow and ice--not to mention what sort of obstacles may loom above, en route to the summit, once the wall is surmounted...
Whereas my teammates continue to push the envelope in the realm of steep ice and modern mixed climbing, I've focused more on honing my classical alpine repertoire: moving with speed and efficiency over snow, ice, and rock, adapting to dynamic mountain conditions and, with luck, opening a new line with style--and, returning from the top, safely!  Every now and then, you'll find me throwing tools, ascending a long icefall--even scratching about, up the odd M-pitch... That's why I rely on Grivel for my varied, mountain-travel needs; throughout our 200-year history, we've continued to apply old-world, hot-forged manufacturing techniques to the ever-evolving demands of alpinists, ski-mountaineers--and, even, lowly rock climbers, like myself!"- Shingo






by Shingo Ohkawa-
Shingo is a Grivel athlete and one of the Wasatch Range’s visionary climbers with a drive for pioneering new routes that is always at full-throttle. He is endlessly contributing to the development of new routes in the Lone Peak Cirque as well as Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons. Shingo is a very pay-it-forward climber. Not only is he expanding the climbing potential in the Salt Lake City area but he is also a volunteer liaison with the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance.


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9/01/2016

Gear Review: Grivel Shuttle


The gear squad from the outdoor blog Dirtbag Dreams recently tested the Grivel Shuttle plaquette style belay device in the Flatirons and Boulder Canyon. The reviewer, Sean Smith is a guide for Denver Mountain Guiding. 

From the review: "All in all the Grivel Shuttle is a reliable belay plate. Its design allows for big wallers to combine pieces of kit to cut down on harness clutter, as well as offering the fast and light alpinist to have a solid belay on wet and icy ropes. The multiple orientations create some much-needed diversity in use for a single plate, allowing the leader to adapt to the speed of the situation that is not offered in the average belay plate."

Read the full review here

7/28/2016

Gear Review: Beal Booster 9.7mm


The Beal Booster 9.7mm rope recently received some love from UKClimbing.com. In their review of the rope, the British review site called the rope "easy to flake," "resistant to kinking," "an extremely hard wearing rope that will take a lot of punishment," and "a sport climbing workhorse."

The Booster is part of Beal's Mountain Line of ropes that features dry treated cords for all-mountain applications. The rope excels as a sport climbing rope, but performs just as well in trad or alpine climbing. This rope weighs in at only 63 g/m, has a low impact force of 7.3 kn, and is rated to 9 UIAA falls. 

To read the full review of the Booster 9.7mm, take a look at the UKC site

7/22/2016

Cypher Vesta Sport Draws Featured in Climbing Magazine


The latest issue of Climbing Magazine features the Cypher Vesta Sport quickdraw in the gear review section of the magazine. The review features new and innovative products that Climbing Magazine testers have used and abused on the mountain. "Simple. Affordable. Durable. Lightweight" were only a few of the adjectives used to describe these draws from Cypher. Reviewers loved the fat dogbone for times that they had to bail while clipping, but also the fact that the nylon sling got skinnier at the ends in order to save a little weight.

To read the full review, and hear some rad stories from the climbing community, check out the July / August issue of Climbing Magazine.

7/20/2016

Grivel Zen Featured in Climbing Magazine






The July/August 2016 issue of Climbing Magazine focuses on alpine climbing and the skills and equipment necessary for long days on the mountain. The gear review of gear hauling backpacks names the Grivel Zen 40 pack as the best "Burly Workhorse." The review calls the pack "light and tougher than nails" and mentions that it can "take heavy abuse and still perform."

To read the full review, and see the other products that Climbing magazine recommends check out this month's issue on newsstands now.

6/01/2016

Climb Faster and Safer with the Grivel Clepsydra

The Grivel Clepsydra Twin Gate Carabiner is a faster and safer locking carabiner; ideal for belaying and rappelling.

Faster because you don't have to waist time with a traditional screw-gate. Just open the outer gate to clip it or the inner gate to unclip it and you're done.

Safer because it's always locked. There is no locking mechanism that will get jammed or unlocked by accident. When both spring-loaded gates are closed, the carabiner is locked and secure.

The Clepsydra features a captive gate on the lower end that keeps the carabiner from cross loading when belaying or rappelling. This safety feature assures that the carabiner will be loaded on its major axis which can withstand more than twice the amount of force than when it's cross loaded on its minor axis (22kN vs. 9kN).

Watch this video to see the Grivel Clepsydra in action:





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5/20/2016

Gear Review: Grivel Apollo Harness


Climbing Magazine recently published a review of the Grivel Apollo Climbing Harness. Among other praises from those testing the product, they described it as a "Minimalist but functional design that offers a surprising amount of comfort. It is easy to adjust, pleasant to wear all day, and has a featherweight for a fully featured harness."

Read the full review here